While travelling in Japan, I often felt I had not done enough research to swallow the meaning of sights and details unfurling before me. That feeling lingered when we wandered around in Arashiyama-Sagano. Arashiyama lies on the western fringe of Kyoto — an hour train ride away. We had initially just planned to see the famed Bamboo Grove.

Arashiyama offered far more than what we expected. We got a little lost in her offerings, but happy we chose our pastoral escape for the day from Kyoto’s many people.

Instead of following the crowd to the Bamboo Grove after getting off the train, we turned onto a quieter, short road. It led us by a lotus flower pond and into a lush verdant park area with rising forested Mt. Ogura, several temples and gardens.


Rich with Zen Buddhism and Ambiance
Without planning, we sauntered into a whole area with several Buddhist temples within a 3 km. radius. –but we didn’t know it until later. We ended up on garden-park grounds in by Hogon-in Temple, a 13th century child temple of Tenyru-ji Temple, one of 5 major Zen Buddhist temples in Japan –just down the road.


Since we didn’t recognize the temple’s significance, we didn’t go into Hogon-in. If we had gone inside, there was a 13-faced bronze Kannon Bodhisattva. Instead, we were distracted and delighted by carved sculptures of rakans, fully enlightened Buddhist sages scattered along the walkway and garden. They were each unique in pose, gesture and facial expression.

Unfortunately the vegetarian restaurant nearby seemed quite expensive. Nearby was a raked Zen stone garden, to mimic ocean waves. It was all peaceful and serene with occasional bird calls we didn’t recognize.


Stumbling Across Former Buddhist Nunnery– Gio-ji Temple
Nestled next door was 10th century Gio-ji Temple, a former tiny Buddhist nunnery. It is now branch of the large Daikakuji Temple across the river, which we didn’t have time to go. Gio-ji sits on former site of the Oujyo-in Temple. I had no idea about this nunnery, until I researched its fabulous moss garden for this blog post. The temple is named after Gio, a dancer who was spurned by her tempermental lover Taira-no-Kiyomori, a leader of the powerful Hieki clan.


She became a Buddhist nun along with her sister and mother. A fourth woman, also a jilted lover of Kiyomori joined them later. The temple is a modest, thatched roof building.

Behold a Tiny World in Moss Garden
The luxuriant moss garden is unlike anything you would ever see in any Asian botanical garden in North America. The whole garden’s name translates as Garden of Lion’s Roar — refrain of Buddhism teachings. It was designed in 16th century by monk, Sakugan Shuryo. The garden is visual lessons in many nuances of green richness and varieties of moss textures. It is a place to

heighten your senses for details in Nature and vagaries of changing sunlight and shadow. An aesthetic in Zen garden design and climate, with years of vibrant moss cultivation — tough to replicate in North America.


Hardly anyone visited at the time which was perfect for undisturbed photo-shooting. Late June blue hydrangea flower blooms added brilliant punch around undulating small walking paths, with low bamboo fencing here and there.





Gio-ji Temple at the foot of Mount Ogura and its dapple-lit moss garden, was an enchanting and serene spot to pause on hot humid summer day.



More Information
Additional explanation of symbols seen in garden.
Brief translation of Gio story.
I like the lush green colours of the zen moss garden. Great photos!
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It was unusual yet pretty cool to see the different mosses in that particular garden.
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This is stunning, Jean. I assume you just went to Japan? Is the month of June a good time to visit? Considering the beauty you depict, it looks like it. This is another country on my bucket list, which grows and grows…
The luscious gardens are gorgeous and I imagine how peaceful they were when you visited.
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We only went in June to coincide with my partner’s birthday. I would recommend going to Japan around cherry blossom season early Mar. to April (which there would be a ton of tourists) or fall..where the same gardens are gorgeously flaming in colour. Mid-June into the summer is hot humid summers in Japan. Meaning 29-35 degrees C. They get heavy rains. You’ll notice a lot of the annual Japaneese cultural/religious festivals are not organized in June. Kyoto is highly recommended…many preserved temples, gardens, shrines because city never bombed in Americans in WWII.
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Looked like a such a quiet scenic walk off the beaten path. Like you said, this isn’t typical of an Asian botanical garden in Australia either. Much deeper history presented through the temples and nature. Some things you just can’t replicate elsewhere.
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The garden in summer, requires appreciation of a certain aesthetic that would be quite difference than the showy autumn flashiness. Both seasons are beautiful but for different reasons.
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Sometimes getting off the tourist path is the very best way. It looks like you had a magnificent time exploring.
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We did have a memorable time in Arashiyama..I haven’t quite figured how to described Part 2. Might take awhile. The temple is advertised but the garden is small and looks modest. Not everyone would clue in to the delicacy of a moss garden.
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Oh you found a pure oasis that I missed! How lovely it all is. I would have loved to see all those rakans especially. Lovely photographs. I did get to see other wonderful things in Arashiayama – a garden of a famous poet and the bamboo grove and the monkeys so it was still a good day for me.
Alison
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You would have enjoyed this area and the garden, Alison. Thankfully no rain for us!
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What a wonderful area. Wish we could have traveled there as well but we had so bad weather during our time in that area that we didnt do any sightseeing
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You would have enjoyed it and children might have found it interesting in a huge bldg. kind of way. But more of place for you and wife…for quietness. 🙂
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We hope to return to Japan within the next five years and hopefully the weather will be on our side 🙂
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I truly hope this for you, CCF. Japan has much to offer..and we might be interested for another repeat for missed explorations. (He feels the pull via Europe..ie. France also.)
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Superb pictures. I really enjoyed your descriptions too.
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Hi Robyn, glad you enjoyed the Japanese garden blog post. 🙂
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I like your perspectives
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I always like your photography, but it’s extra special because you’re in my part of the world. Looks like a magical day and such a great capture of the bird. Truly, I have no idea how folks get photos of birds!
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Well, I missed another great bird shot while cycling back here at home…a red-tailed hawk that was less than 3 metres away. You may be lucky one day.
Japan would be a contrast, Asian country-wise compared to where you are now.
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Yes, absolutely. It’s on the list!
Ahhh, red-tailed hawks. I used to see them in the sky all the time when I lived out West. xo
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💖
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We visited Arashiyama in autumn and it was quite chilly. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. 🙂
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I’m sure it was beautiful with colour
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Wow, what photos. I loved these especially: Many sculptures of rakans. They are gorgeous.
Thank You sharing this post. Have a good day!
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The many statues were a surprise to us, Sartenda.
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Jean, you missed your calling: you should have been a travel writer. Oh, wait– you’ve become one!! And an excellent one, I must say. Your photos continue to impress and delight. Thanks for sharing your Japan adventure and your insights and commentary. And I could really identify with that one Buddha who seemed to be scratching his head!!
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Travel inspires me to write ..and shoot a heck of stack of photos. 🙂 You may have enjoyed some of the statue expressions.
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Our hotel was in Arashiyama, and the area was lovely, though inconvenient by public transit for the rest of Kyoto. Wish we had seen these statues, but at least I can enjoy your photos!
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We didn’t expect to see those statues at all. So it was a cool surprise. We stayed in Kyoto and just spent the day in Arashiyama. I look forward to more blog posts about Japan.
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