Escape to Arashiyama, Part I: Many Faces of Buddhism, Nuances in Zen Moss Garden

While travelling in Japan, I often felt I had not done enough research to swallow the meaning of sights and details unfurling before me.   That feeling lingered when we wandered around in Arashiyama-Sagano.    Arashiyama lies on the western fringe of Kyoto — an hour train ride away. We had initially just planned to see the famed Bamboo Grove.

Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong. Forested Mount Ogura rises ahead. Cherry blossom sprays were fake, but appropriate.

Arashiyama offered far more than what we expected. We got a little lost in her offerings, but happy we chose our pastoral escape for the day from Kyoto’s many people.

Details of buildings in Hongo-ji Temple area. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Instead of following the crowd to  the Bamboo Grove after getting off the train, we turned onto a quieter, short road.  It led us by a lotus flower pond and  into a lush verdant park area with rising forested Mt. Ogura,  several temples and gardens.

Cycling in temple walled area which held unexpected surprises for us. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Entry ways along quiet temple compound road may unfold beautiful shrine views. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Rich with Zen Buddhism and Ambiance
Without planning, we sauntered into a whole area with several Buddhist temples within a 3 km. radius. –but we didn’t know it until later.  We  ended up on garden-park grounds in  by Hogon-in Temple, a 13th century child temple of Tenyru-ji Temple, one of 5 major Zen Buddhist temples in Japan –just down the road.

Lotus in pond on walk into temple compound. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong. Pink lotus flowers are for highest deity, Great Buddha. Flower symbolizes one gaining spiritual enlightment rising above murky mud of material world.

Manicured temple compound grounds by Hongo-ji Temple. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Since we didn’t recognize the temple’s significance, we didn’t go into Hogon-in.  If we had gone inside, there was a 13-faced bronze Kannon Bodhisattva.  Instead, we were distracted and delighted by carved sculptures of rakans, fully enlightened Buddhist sages scattered along the walkway and garden.  They were each unique in pose, gesture and facial expression.

Many sculptures of rakans, enlighted Buddhist sages by entry way to Hongo-ji Temple. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Unfortunately the vegetarian restaurant nearby seemed quite expensive. Nearby was a raked Zen stone garden, to mimic ocean waves. It was all peaceful and serene with occasional bird calls we didn’t recognize.

Afar to many, not evident, a raked Zen stone garden. Bamboo trees rise above garden. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Zen Buddhist raked stone garden. Waves mimic ocean waves. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Stumbling  Across Former Buddhist Nunnery–  Gio-ji Temple
Nestled next door was 10th century Gio-ji Temple, a former tiny Buddhist nunnery.  It is now branch of the large Daikakuji Temple across the river, which we didn’t have time to go.  Gio-ji sits on former site of the Oujyo-in Temple.  I had no idea about this nunnery, until I researched its fabulous moss garden for this blog post. The temple is named after Gio, a dancer who was spurned by her tempermental lover  Taira-no-Kiyomori, a leader of the powerful Hieki clan.

Hydrangeas draped over garden path in Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Early summer garden views, short path to Gion-ji Temple. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

She became a Buddhist nun along with her sister and mother. A fourth woman, also a jilted lover of Kiyomori  joined them later.  The temple is a modest, thatched roof building.

Blue hydrangea blooms. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashisyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Behold a Tiny World in Moss Garden
The luxuriant moss garden is unlike anything you would ever see in any Asian botanical garden in North America. The whole garden’s name translates as Garden of Lion’s Roar  — refrain of Buddhism teachings.  It was designed in 16th century by monk, Sakugan Shuryo.  The garden is visual lessons  in many nuances of green richness and varieties of moss textures.  It is a place to

Moss garden undulates in sunlight and shadow –with subtleties of various mosses. Near Gion-ji Temple. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

heighten your senses for details in Nature and vagaries of changing sunlight and shadow.   An aesthetic in Zen garden design and climate, with years of vibrant moss cultivation  — tough to replicate in North America.

Tiny maple leaf in moss kingdom. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Hall of Boundless Light on garden grounds. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Hardly anyone visited at the time which was perfect for undisturbed photo-shooting.  Late June blue hydrangea flower blooms added brilliant punch around undulating small walking paths, with low bamboo fencing here and there.

Pebbles are a metaphor for sea of human suffering. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Cozy moss cushion planter on top mossy bed. Part of Zen garden aesthetic. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Moss drapes onto boulder, “Lion’s Rock”, in garden. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Buddhist sage in thoughtful repose. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Delicate vine necklace even noticeable over 8 metres away. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Gio-ji Temple at the foot of Mount Ogura and its dapple-lit moss garden, was an enchanting and serene spot to pause on hot humid summer day.

Treading in moss garden. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Moss garden in appreciation of subtleties. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

Summer garden blossoms. Garden of Lion’s Roar. Arashiyama, Japan 2018. Photo by J.Chong

More Information
Additional explanation of symbols seen in garden.
Brief translation of Gio story.