We’re not purists when we travel overseas to see “perfectly”, preserved towns. Others may scoff for being too touristy. To me, it’s all part of the same culture –the well-kept heritage, the tourist-kitschy and ordinary messiness. Rothenburg ob der Tauber was a charming, historic town of 11,000 that

ostensibly relied on its tourist economy. No problem. It didn’t dilute our enjoyment as our final stop in our European trip.

Since we chose to cycle into Rothenburg in October, we knew we would miss its world-famous Christmas market since the medieval times. We couldn’t justify an expensive overseas trip to enjoy possibly slushy snow and winter cold in Germany for a short visit. Instead, we were there in shoulder, fall season which was the best decision we made –less tourist hordes.


Unfortunately we unknowingly missed the town’s annual medieval festival, Imperial City days, just a month before.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber was spared from some bombing during World War II. Its name means “Red Fortress above the Tauber” river. Indeed, while strolling along its cobblestone streets, you will see restored stone fort walls and watchtowers.


We stayed in a large inn run since the medieval times, right in the heart of the town. It never felt noisy nor overly crowded during our stay. Just by simply looking out our hotel windows, we were surrounded by many buildings of medieval, Reformation and Renaissance heritage.
It always amazes me how some little European towns built and sustained their local, elaborate cathedrals and churches over the centuries. Next door to our inn, was the soaring St. Jacob’s Church which housed an intricate beautiful wood carved altar of the 12 Apostles. This town has over 6 churches, of which several like St. Jacob’s, date back to 1200 – 1300’s.



A five-minute stroll past this church, we were then in the main town square of market history, decorative fountain-well, restaurants and small businesses with gold metal artsy signs hung above pedestrians. Even the local Chinese restaurant had their own metal sign fashioned with the requisite dragon.
We dropped by a restaurant with different spaetzel specialities–a type of German light pasta on the side, with meat dishes. It was just a block away from a gun and hunting shop with its own metal gun shop sign and dummy dressed in German traditional hunting gear with its mock gun.
We managed to see 80% of the local history museum which houses medieval to mid-1800’s art, artifacts and information exhibits that included highlights of Martin Luther’s local influence on pulling locals away from excesses of Catholicism.


Later, on bikes we shalomed down an old steep road into an even smaller, old village for a short valley ride in the countryside. Peaceful and sleepy. Almost too quiet. How protected life must be in these villages. We saw no open shops nor cafes – same as the village we cycled along the canal outside of Dijon, France.


Even back in Rothenburg, I noticed down residential cobblestone laneways, rowhouses that were carefully shuttered for privacy from wandering tourists. It’s all picturesque in this little preserved kingdom just for visitors. Nevertheless, the town welcomes the world in good spirits and curt grace to showcase a microcosm of German architectural history and life through the centuries.


I too wonder about the amazement of the elaborate cathedrals in churches from so many centuries ago. They were built for a reason, and hold the same significance to many locals today as well. It is nice to read that it is quiet in a good part of the country, and to have a nice time for a leisurely cycle too. It is interesting to note there are many cobblestones over there in the towns, and I’ve also heard of that from other blogs as well. Not too cycling friendly there I’m guessing.
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True, cobblestones aren’t cycling friendly. Imagine, though some international professional cycling races have some sections over cobblestone roads. Would cobblestone streets still exist anywhere in an Aussie city? If they were even built at all long ago…
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I haven’t come across cobblestone streets in Australia. That would be challenging indeed for cycling races over this kind of path. As a cyclist, you’d have to make sure you get your balance right – every small hump might make it all the more difficult to pedal and balance…
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Thank you very much for your post on Rothenburg ob der Tauber! It brought back precious memories of more than 50 years ago, when I traveled by bike with a friend from Wesel all the way down to Lake Constance (Bodensee). Great photography, Jean!
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I’m certain by now the town looks more “touristy” to you. It does take strong local municipal bylaws to preserve heritage architecture, etc.
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Wonderful pictures. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is on my list and we nearly managed to go there this year, but only nearly. Now we have only a few Chinese friends who will go there before visiting us
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Hope you get there CCF. Children will love it as they become older.
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Wow, that altarpiece! And is that a fold-up bike?
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Yes, he had his folding bike and I had mine. We also took trains. Our bike trips during this European trip, weren’t as long compared to other trips.
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I’ve been there several times, although never biking, and love the town despite it’s touristy vibe. People want to see it for a reason! It’s a stunning town and because it escaped destruction during the war, there are few others like it.
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Well, part of it did get bombed. But I agree, that it’s great the town has managed preserve the best parts. You were passing through those times..so clearly Germany has personal connection for someone in your family? Or someone just wants to speak German? 😉
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Hubs and I went on a European road trip back in 1981. We decided to drive down the Romantic Road and wanted to stop in Rothenburg for a few hours. We couldn’t figure out why there were so many cars parked in the fields surrounding the city until we got inside. We unknowingly stumbled in on the annual medieval festival!! I was such a clueless traveler back then… It was totally amazing and something I’ll never forget!
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I envy you for that medieval festival experience. Like you, I was also clueless when we went to Hampton Court, King Henry VIII’s castle, outside of London. They had some sort of medieval festival which we didn’t have time to explore..
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Jean what a wonderful town. I had not heard of it before. I very much enjoyed exploring through your narrative and gorgeous photos. The night scene is beautiful.
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This was our only stop in Germany (besides the Frankfurt airport) and worth it.
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Yes, a very nice town. My Canadian son-in-law also loves everything medieval, the highlight beeing the annual festivity “Tournament of the Knights” at Kaltenberg Castle, featuring the world’s best horse stunt group (based in France, they provide horse stunts for Hollywood). Anyway, of course people from the “New World ” love medieval stuff because they don’t have it – but we love it, too😉LG lilisar
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The Vikings did touch Canada in Labrador in medieval times/years. When I was in England briefly, we went to King Henry VIII’s castle by taking the commuter train from London. There was small medieval festival in town at the time.
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Very nice photos associated with all the history, as you well described in your post. Very nice material. I saw a documentary about Bavaria with the famous castle Neuschwanstein, not quite Medieval like the ones in Rothenburg but very beautiful too.
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Thx for dropping by!
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very lovely town! I loved exploring it and loved the picures!
thank you !!
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Thx for dropping by!
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T enjoyed this!
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🙂 Wonder what he enjoyed the most. The town spends an enormous effort to preserve it well.
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I have often cycled the Tauber Valley, up to and including Weikersheim, but somehow never continued the few extra kilometers to Rothenburg.
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Just a few kms. to a place where it’s probably up a notch in terms of heritage. Or maybe it’s just the tourists you’d rather avoid. 🙂
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I don’t mind the tourists, but Weikersheim is where the German chapter of Jeunesses Musicales puts on an opera production every second summer. Also I love the town and palace of Weikersheim, and the palace garden and the surrounding villages.
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I fell in love with this town when I was a little girl on vacation with my parents. Despite the number of tourists I still enjoy visiting, especially in the off-season. I did not know about the Medieval festival…sounds like a ton of fun.
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We read of the annual, centuries old Christmas Market but winter didn’t strike us as lovely as the fall for cycling. 😉
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