Easily Drunk on Cycle-Touring in Wine Regions

Blasted Church Winery.Okanagan Valley. Near Oliver, BC. 2005. Tasting room is housed in an old church that was carefully dynamited in the 1920′s in order to relocate it at that time. Photo by J. Chong

It’s annoying to have my  health problem whenever we go cycle-touring in the wine regions of Canada, U.S. and Europe: I get easily drunk on alcohol.
 
You could say I am afflicted by a common problem that isn’t just confined to some Asians (although there is that stereotyping). My ears become quite red: fast like a supremely over-exerted cyclist after  less than 6-8 sips of wine.
 
Either Red Ears or Tone Down Wine Sips
By drinking more wine, just to “harden” my sensitivities to the fermented grape, is not a solution. Not when already, I’m into my fifth decade in life.  I still want a liver and control over calorie intake. Drinking wine often means drinking in more calories too.

My seafood salad lunch. Muse Winery Bistro, Saanich. Vancouver Island, BC 2011. Photo by J. Chong. Local fresh seafood is common on an island winery bistro menu. Food sometimes is just as good as the wine from their barrels.

Nevertheless, we have sallied forth by bike into the wine regions of  Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Ontario; Okanagan Valley in interior British Columbia and on Vancouver Island.  We have yet to taste the recent wines from eastern Ontario in Prince Edward County or south on Pelee Island. These areas developed their vineyards after we moved to British Columbia.

Spring time at Saltspring Winery. Saltspring Island, BC 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Wine Regions- A Heady Bouquet of Memories
We have touched down on some great routes and wineries with  creative tasting rooms, good wines, restaurants and ambience that sometimes tie together the local experience into a lovely bouquet of memories.

At a winery in Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island 2003.

 My jumpstart into wineries, was over 16 years ago with our 120 km. cycling day trip from Toronto to Niagara-on-the-Lake wine region.  Since then, we’ve done this trip several times different ways which included  a ferry across Lake Ontario that ran only a scant 2 summers.  We have also biked around the lake, as a hot humid bike trip in summer from downtown Toronto. Now, wine-thirsty cyclists can choose to roll on their bikes onto the popular  summer weekend Bike Train service passengers from Toronto.

The 50 km. 1-way bike route from Port Dalhousie to Fort Erie, past the roaring Niagara Falls and Butterfly Gardens, is easy, if not also crazy-busy during peak tourist season.  A more pleasant visit is early fall, with the blaze of autumn-kissed trees along the bike path. 

Local art work may be featured at various tasting rooms or outdoors at the site. Nk’Mip Cellars, an aboriginal winery run by the Osoyoos Indian Band. Near Oliver, B.C.2005. Photo by J. Chong. Not typically European in artistry but wine-making is embedded in European techniques.

 During various different trips across Canada, we’ve stopped to pull out our bikes and puff away on short steep hills in the Okanagan Valley, Canada’s near desert-like wine region in British Columbia.

Favourite Wineries Blend Spirits, Scenery, Food and Artistry
One of my favourite wineries for wine, great food and valley views, is Quail’s Gate in West Kelowna which overlooks gentle grapevine slopes dipping down to Okanagan Lake.   The winery’s location shows off the area’s sparkling waters, bright clear skies, undulating hills and winding roads.
 

View overlooking vineyards, mountains to Okanagan Lake, from Quail’s Gate Wines’ restaurant patio. West Kelowna, BC 2008. Photo by J. Chong

At Summerhill Wines, past its signature upended wine bottle sculpture, is a restaurant that offers relaxation for a lovely meal and shade from the sunny dry heat  –that is, if you can avoid the crowds during peak seasons. They once produced a white wine packaged in a blue glass violin shaped bottle which I’ve kept, after savouring its contents.
 
Though we have not yet travelled by bike to the following two Okanagan Valley wineries mentioned below, I can’t resist just mentioning them because of their unusual ambiance and effective marketing.

Antique wooden grape press by a French vineyard. Provence, France 2012. Photo by J. Becker

Blasted Church Wines are arresting just for its wine labels and its story of a carefully dynamited church in 1929 that was moved from Okanagan Falls to its present location that now houses the tasting room.

For innovative surroundings and something unEuropean, but deeply embedded in British Columbian identity, is Nk’Mip Wine Cellars which features aboriginal iconography and artwork in its restaurant, tasting room and grounds. The winery has been developed by savvy local aboriginal entrepreneurs from the Osoyoos Indian Band.

Mermaid in rubber boots is logo for Saltspring Island Wines. Saltspring Island, BC 2005. Photo by J. Chong. Winery as well as Cherrypoint Wines each produces blackberry wine.

Can’t Resist Local Seafood  and Blackberry Wine
What distinguishes British Columbia in vineyard visits and tastings, are also  local salmon and other fresh large local seafood featured on winery restaurant menus at reasonable prices for high quality.

Whenever I visit Vancouver Island wineries, like Cherry Point Wines, I savour the seafood entrees just as much as the accompanying wine from their barrels nearby.  Large scallops, spotted shrimp (unique to Pacific Northwest coast), various clam varieties and mussels, are often drawn from the Pacific waters.  This level of freshness and quality most definitely, is not featured much in Germany at winery restaurants.

Cycle-touring by Rhine River along the “Wine Route” in his birthplace area with vineyards, picturesque old towns and castle ruins. Black Forest Region, southern Germany, 2008.

Ideal frost-snow conditions in British Columbia and Niagara-on-the-Lake wine regions, also allow pressing of ice wine more easily than Spain, Italy or France.

For locals or visitors,  I cannot stop reminding people that Vancouver Island, is home of port-like blackberry wine varietals. Blackberry bushes bust out all over the land, if left unpruned, since they thrive in Pacific Northwest coastal balmy weather and rain –much to the curse of dedicated gardeners.

Wandering and Wine-Tasting Overseas
Further abroad, we have cycle-ventured  into the Napa-Sonoma wine region in California (though more him, than me), bike-touched the wine regions in Washington and Oregon. 

Since Jack’s family roots are based in the Black Forest region in the famed wine region by the Rhine River in southern Germany, we have cycled there for wine, food, and 

Chatting with farming couple at farmers’ market who grew cherries plus make and sell their own kirschausseur, “cherry wine”. Freiburg, Germany 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Wines were sold 4-5 euros per bottle. It is common that some German farmers in the wine-growing regions will make small batches of their own wine for sale. Not far from this market, was a retail store, showcasing and selling local, lesser known wines in this region.

picturesque villages while on our way to visit relatives.  His extended family still has a vineyard and hotel inn with restaurant since the 1700’s.  It is a region that other Europeans flock, whose home country lack wineries due to inadequate climatic conditions for grape-growing –ie. from Scandanavia, United Kingdom, etc.

Cycling by vineyards and winery in Aix-le-Provence, France 2012. Photo by J. Becker

I haven’t yet cycled France enough, to visit its wine regions.  However, last spring Jack rolled through the Burgundy wine region but was unable to stock up on wine due to his heavy packed bike panniers. He really wondered if he would be able to meet his 80-100 km. daily cycling goals if he stopped for a swig of red wine glory. So, he blissfully spun unaware through some French winery areas that produced famed red wines that cost over $120.00 per bottle in North America.

Vineyards surround centuries old town, Weingarten, Germany 2010. Area near where Jack was born and family members are still there. Photo by J. Chong. Approximately 15 km. southwest of the French border. Weingarten translates from German as “Wein” for wine and “agarten” for garden.

So touring wine regions by bike offers many gorgeous vistas, an outdoor Nature experience married with cultural refinement –even if you can’t pack in much wine in your tummy or in your bike panniers, from your favourite winery stops.

Cycling through picturesque old French towns in Champagne, France 2009. Photo by J. Becker. The region that certifies only certain vineyards for producing the real champagne.

 Reading to Entice You:
Tourism British Columbia. Includes information on its wine regions, map and winery links.

Chong, J. Cycling for Spargel, Kirsch and Blue Painted Bikes in Black Forest Region, Germany.  In Cycle Write Blog. Jun. 3, 2010.

Chong, J. Freiburg, Germany: Cycling Among Medieval and Renaissance Restoration. In Cycle Write Blog. Jul. 10, 2010.

Chong, J. An Idyllic Summer Escape to Vancouver Island for Maidei. In Cycle Write Blog. Jul. 3, 2011. 

Homemade focaccia-pizza with a Okanagan Valley merlot from Stag’s Hollow winery in B.C. Photo by J. Chong

Summerhill Wines’ patio wine bottle sculpture. Overlooking Okanagan Lake, Kelowna B.C. Photo by J. Chong

A Fitness Match Made in Heaven: Your Personality And Your Favourite Sport

For a long time, I’ve always believed that you need to find the right sport or physical activity that matches your personality to feed your motivation forever.  This wonderful personality-sport fusion, will keep you cycling, jogging, hiking, walking, golfing or

Cycling feeds another passion: travel and time to savour sights. Cascade Mountain, part of Canadian Rockies. On Banff Legacy bike path north from Canmore, AB 2012. Photo by J. Chong

lawn-bowling for many years.
 
Having Different Habits and Social Needs: Finding the Right Fit, Passion
I used to extoll the virtues of cycling to anyone that was willing to listen. No more.  Not everyone is suited for cycling, rollerblading or swimming.  We are creatures of habits

2010 Olympic women’s hockey semi-final game: Switzerland vs. Russia. Vancouver, BC. Photo by J. Chong

with different patterns and socialization needs with others.  Or not socializing with others…which is why some of us revel in the solitary walk or bike ride at times.

Team Sports Not For Everyone
When I was a child, I enjoyed playing softball  daily under the hot summer with other girls before and after school. Our school had segregated sex playgrounds. Our softball diamonds for both guys and girls, were asphalt pavement. Our school playgrounds did not have grass. But no matter, kids played softball, soccer on the playground in the late 1960’s to 1970’s at our school.

Practicing capoeria, a dance-like Brazilian form of martial arts. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

But gradually, I started to withdraw from team sports.  I didn’t like the reminder, that really, I wasn’t as athletically inclined as some other girls in volleyball and basketball.  Team sports forced me to compare my performance against other players.
 
I  also didn’t like the dependency of my role as a team player for  the team’s overall winning or losing stance.  I tried field hockey for a few weeks, but dropped out.  I can’t even remember the reason. Field hockey was clashing at the same time, with my rising passion in art and poetry writing –both solitary activities.

Hiking in canyon area near Sante Fe, New Mexico 2005. Photo by J. Becker

Physical Activities- Going Solo But with Choices for Companionship
In the background of my maturing body and angst of teenage years, I was still biking occasionally around my neighbourhood on a  one-speed bike that I shared with 3 other sisters. (A fourth sister was still too young to bike.) 

I didn’t go very far, but I loved cycling because there was no team to please nor need to conform within the game rules.  I could bike at my own pace.  Besides, as the eldest child, it was a temporary escape from looking after younger siblings.

Kayaking to see more wonderous sights. Doubtful Sound, South Island. New Zealand 2002. Photo by J. Becker. Part of a solo 6-month cycling trip for Becker.

My return to cycling at 32 yrs. after abandoning cycling when I was 20, was partially fuelled by these happy childhood and teen memories. 

Cycling suits my natural introverted tendencies.  But  cycling also fits my occasional need to socialize and share cycling passion with others if I want:  by riding non-competitively in small groups or in large mega charity cycling events.  Or riding often with Jack or a good friend.

Sport as Springboard for Advocacy, Travel
Cycling also has been a springboard for me in  advocacy work by encouraging cycling for health and transportation and supporting improved cycling infrastructure through the efforts of local cycling organizations, in cities where I’ve lived. 

Cycling by Bow Valley Provincial Park, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Becker

 Cycling, like hiking, kayaking, rowing, snowshoeing or cross country skiing, have provided me opportunities to travel and enjoy local corners and far-flung foreign scenery from a completely unique perspective that cars cannot sometimes reach.

So all above motivators have kept me on the bike saddle, year after year, for the past 21 years.

Highland dancers at a bike festival who impressed bystanders in summer heat. Calgary AB 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Lifelong Dancing with Your Physical Activity Muse 
I wonder whenever I hear of those who try all sorts of different sports and diets to lose weight and improve their fitness, but are failing in their efforts long term.  Have they found the magic physical fitness bullet that fills both their personal physical and mental soul?

Have they found the sport that matches their personality?  Or are they wasting unhappy energy latching onto a sport that is the current rage that everyone is practicing?Is it a team sport that a person can easily meld their social needs and schedules to play with others?  Or is it a solo based performance sport that appeals to their introverted or solo-motivated tendencies? Is it a sport that has flexibility for a person to practice it happily solo or in groups?

Snowshoeing Tram Line. Lake Louise, AB 2012. Photo by J. Chong

By landing on a sport that you enjoy practicing, it becomes naturally integrated into the rhythms of your day, week and onward, for many years.  Your choice of regular physical activity then, becomes not a chore, but a welcome break and necessary, like brushing your teeth.
 
Whether it’s gardening, lacrosse, Highland dancing or yoga, may you discover a physical activity, that lights the fuse of your motivation, inspiration and leads you to more related passions, friends and good health for life.

Fun photo for possible sport choices for a cycling family. MEC Bikefest 2012. Calgary, AB. Even baby in mother’s backpack carrier is part of the fun. (Sorry: Wiring and lightbulb runs through the photo booth.)

Further Reading:
Chong, Jean. Blogging and Cycling: It’s Like a Drug. In One Cool Blogging Tips Blog. Nov. 11, 2011.

A Google search under keywords, sport and personality, will yield a plethora of scholarly journal articles on the relationship between choice of sport and personality.

St. George Rainway: Painting a Bygone Salmon Stream

Part of the “St. George Rainway”, a road mural painting dedicated to a bygone salmon stream on St. George Street between 7th and 8th Ave East. Vancouver, BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong. Foreground is a laneway.

On a misty grey summer morning, we hotfooted by bike to see a brand-new road painting that memorializes a bygone salmon stream that ran through the Mount Pleasant Vancouver neighbourhood. That’s right –a somewhat bumpy road surface was graced overnight with a blue-green swirly art stream of salmon, frogs, trees and sea life in a quiet residential area. The road community art work was the St. George Rainway.

We arrived there at the right time –colours were still pure, bright and unblemished from the previous evening’s painting party.  Road traffic was quiet since rush hour peak activity if such a street experienced it, had died down.

Well, it’s doubtful that this artwork was conceived so quickly. There was public consultation with the community, some artists created and presented the design, the False Creek Watershed Society helped promote the public painting party evening

St.George Rainway painting begins at a traffic calming circle filled with a community garden. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong.

weeks in advance, City placed some temporary traffic barriers and more volunteers were secured to paint and complete the 50 metre long painting within 5 hours on June 28, 2012.

It is remarkable what can be achieved by throwing down a well-designed painting on public road space if there is artistic vision, orchestrated effort of enthusiastic volunteers and some leadership.

St. George Street runs alongside a public school that has its fence already decorated with children’s salmon placard art – a common iconic sight at various Vancouver

St. George Rainway winds its artful way the full length of a street block. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong. Painted with community volunteers under artistic direction.

elementary public schools. The painted stream or “rainway” starts from a garden festooned traffic calming circle to nearly the end of the first block.

Painting imagery depicts seven stages of salmon, frogs, flora and fauna with multiple word translations of “water”.

While we were there, a few cyclists cruised along and various drivers drove hesitantly down the rainway. While it might have been the sight of us, 2 cyclists wandering around with their cameras , it was obvious some drivers were seeing the road painting for the first time also. Some cars inched slowly down the side of the road, not down the centre of the

“Shui” means water in Chinese. St. George Rainway painting. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

road. Either a driver wanted to see more of the painting or allow us to continue photo-shooting. We weren’t sure. But at least, the fanciful stream painting, slowed down the drivers for a short residential street.

Rainway Painting Captures a Fleeting Image, Memory
The St. George Rainway is a touchstone that nudges pedestrians, cyclists and drivers to look, ponder, ask questions (What is this painting all about?) and contemplate the winding story of a lost stream and sea life prior to urbanization. We should welcome more inspiring permanent motifs that pull us outside and remind us what has been lost and what needs to be cherished for the future.

Salmon and other sea life swirl across St. George Street. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

This painting too, shall fade in brilliance after the beating of rain, traffic, sunlight and snow. Catch and enjoy its ephemeral dream memory while you can.

Further Reading
Mount Pleasant Community Association. Mount Pleasant Watershed Society Blog.

Chong, Jean. Mosaic Park: A Creative Stream of Community Consciousness and Dreams. In Cycle Write Blog, Aug. 24, 2010.  For something a bit different: another public outdoor art installation with over 200 different mosaic designs that depicts a community’s wish for a water stream in their neighbourhood park.

Cherry Blossom Ballet in Vancouver: Nature and New Mural Art

I had been wanting to highlight this new outdoor public mural that featured cherry blossoms against the backdrop of West Coast Japanese-Canadian and aboriginal history.

St. James Community Services Society mural reflects Japanese-Canadian and aboriginal history, culture along with west coast sea life. By Joey Mallet & Rita Buchwitz 2011. Commissioned for Vancouver’s 125th anniversary. Photo by J. Chong.

The St. James Community Service Society mural was commissioned in 2011 by the City of Vancouver, as part of their new public art works in celebration of the city’s 125th anniversary. The mural is also a dedication to the work of the Society for 50 years in the downtown Eastside for providing emergency shelter services, hospice care, support to seniors and those with mental illness.

Cherry blossoms. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

This new mural is located at the corner of Powell and Gore Streets, in the area that was Japantown, adjacent to Chinatown. The mural includes a watery image of herring, cedar tree fronds, other sea life and a totem pole.

In this neighbourhood, there are several outdoor art installations within 1 block in all directions, that are touchstones to also aboriginal culture and Chinese- Canadian history.

Former Japanese-Canadian internment camp during WW II in mountainous interior region of British Columbia. New Denver, BC 2005. Photo by HJEH Becker

Fragile Blossoms Frame Grey Shadows in Japanese-Canadian History
Delicate arching branches of pale pink blossoms contrast against the grey flotilla of Japanese-Canadian fishing boats in the mural. During the latter part of the 19th century and up to World War II, the Japanese immigrants were formative in sustaining the fishing and canning industries along the southern coast of British Columbia. However, the dark spot in history was the confiscation of their fishing boats and their possessions by the Canadian government in 1939 and thereafter, with the Japanese Allied bombing of Pearl Harbour in Hawaii.

All Japanese-Canadians during World War II, were deemed suspect by the Canadian government as a threat to Canada, even though many of these Canadians had never been to Japan or their family were already settled in Canada for several generations. There was 

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 corralling of Japanese-Canadians and relocation of them by train, into camps located in the mountain interior areas of British Columbia. It was a clear racist target against a group of Canadians who were innocent and not responsible for Pearl Harbour attack. Parallel action was also taken by the U.S. against the Japanese-Americans.

The businesses in Japantown never fully recovered after WWII. Many of the families lost their possessions, businesses and were nominally compensated by the Canadian government 50 years later in the 1980’s,  for a token amount of money.

Cherry blossoms. Stanley Park, Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

The mural is also an ethereal bow to the profusion of cherry trees bursting forth every spring, all over Vancouver. Previously I had written a blog post on this wonderful pink herald of spring which began as a gift of cherry trees from the Japanese government.

Cherry Trees Inspire Landscape Design for New Developments
Nowadays, it’s refreshing to see that both the City of Vancouver and some private developers have incorporated new cherry tree plantings into the landscaping and streetscape designs. You can see young trees blooming around the perimeter of a playing field in David Lam Park, by new condominium developments while bicycling from Stanley Park and along streets in Kitsalano and Shaugnessey neighbourhoods, where there are more mature cherry trees.

Queen Elizabeth Park in spring time. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Pink Blossoms Dance Like Ballet Tutus
Unlike the famed cherry blossoms in Washington DC, or even in Japan, on the northwest British Columbia coast,  sometimes delicate cherry trees are thriving beside soaring old growth trees that have stood for several hundred years. Boughs of tissue-thin, cherry blossom branches dance ballet-like in the wind, against rough, mossy wide girth of Douglas firs.

The cherry blossom sprays are like a profusion of many pink ballet tutus shifting, jumping and floating in the spring breeze. It is a happy dance of memory and hope for us when we face the rain showers and sun in the months ahead.

More Interesting Reading (and Photos)
Chong, Jean. Cycling Under Cherry Pink Flowering Bowers. In Cycle Write Blog, Apr. 18, 2010.

Asia in My Dreams: Romanticizing the East

After half a century, I still haven’t been to Asia yet.  Being Canadian-born and resident in Canada all my life ( Huron-Iroquois native Indian for “Kanata“, meaning village), I have only impressions and tenuous connections to ancestral land of China.

Statuary on top of temple. Hsinchu City, Tawain 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. An Asian interpretation of baroque-like detail.

As Asia hurtles along in the 21st century to remake itself, I have had to rejiggle my perceptions about this diverse area and simultaneously, my hopes of ever visiting there.  By now, I’m wondering if I will ever be motivated to visit at all. Let me explain.

Mother and I at home in southern Ontario, Canada. Beginnings of my reality, dreams and identity.

 Dreams Start in German-Mennonite Ontario County Area
While growing up in a small southern Ontario city, I had visions of a land with ancient pagodas dwarfed by sheer rocky mountain spires,  blue Mao-suited residents shuffling in black cloth Chinese slippers who were eating food that was more deeply layered and diverse in taste, compared to the fare served up in diner woks across North America.

These images were reinforced by my parents’ collection of older Chinese pictorial magazines that I later plundered photos to illustrate my school projects and ace some high marks. (I think the marks were for the amount of  information I enthusiastically shared in the project.)

Cycling in an enclosed village area, Changzhi, China 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker.

Also my half-baked impressions, were fed by letters with Mao and Communist peasant inspired stamps on letters from relatives in mainland China, during the 1970’s.

Dispatches from Other Canadian-born Chinese
Later, in the 1980’s when other Canadian-born Chinese friends went overseas to live and travel, there were stories of being tracked occasionally by Chinese authorities, some travel restrictions, difficulties of learning Mandarin as adults while savouring both, delicious and lousy cheap food, sights of  rural poverty, crowded cities, some magnificent scenery and architecture.

It was mostly foreign to me.  But still, wonderful to hear tales both great and not so great.

In a mountain park. Seoul, South Korea. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Ideal, tranquil image of Asia.

Finally a sister and I had vaguely entertained the idea of a trip to China. But that same year later,  the 1989 Tianamen Square massacre of several hundred student protestors in Beijing and terror,  forced us early to switch our sights to Europe.  We spent three weeks bopping around in 10 European countries.

She however did embark a few years later, on a memorable trip with her husband for several weeks in China and Thailand.

Expanding Asian Dreams-  Moving to Toronto
Meanwhile my childhood romantic thoughts were crystallizing with greater clarity when I moved to Toronto to find work after university. Here was one of Canada’ highest proportion of Asian-Canadians where suddenly, I wasn’t noticed as much by racial ethnicity.

Spicy Korean seafood noodle soup with condiments 2012. Calgary, AB. Began exploring other Asian cuisines, outside of Chinese Cantonese food starting in my mid 20′s.

For the first time in my mid-20’s, I started to taste the fiery kimchee soaked condiments and egg smothered bim bap in Korean restaurants, as well as barbecued eel,  sushi and sashimi from Japanese restaurants  and curries from Malayasian eateries.  Yup, that was how “narrow” my experience of  just Asian cuisine.  What do you expect from a kid who  grew up in a German-Mennonite city and then, spent a few years buried in her studies in the conservative, Caucasian dominant city of London, Ontario?

My Asian dreams got wider geographically  –through food as a touchstone.  Thai food stoked the golden visions of the Royal Palace in Bangkok and skinny market boats floating down canals, loaded with fresh produce.

Cambodia 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis

Too Lazy to Learn, Globalization of Asia: Other Excuses Not to Visit
Yet, increasingly I was focusing more on the history of the Chinese and Japanese in North America.  Not only was it more relevant, but it was simply easier and less to read.

Laden cyclists and motorbikes compete for road space. Vietnam 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis.

As a hobby, it was too much effort for me to figure out  over  3,000 years of Chinese dynastic history prior to the Opium Wars in the 1800’s.

Over time, the lure of a different place untouched by Western consumerism and individualism, was losing its exotic veneer : family members told stories of occasional breathing problems in polluted, humid Bangkok or Beijing, nearly blind consumer worship of McDonald’s, Louis  Vitton and cars sweeping across at least, urban Asia, or news reports on gross occupational hazards where locals died or were injured while labouring under dangerous conditions.

Commuter train crowds in Taipei, Tawain 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Similar scene at rush hour in Vancouver, however with approx. up to 60% Asian faces.

 Need Asia Anymore?
Now the latest, is that some streets in Shanghai core areas are just like any North American yuppified area.  Do I need to experience that when I can get a similar experience just by wandering down Robson St. in Vancouver, BC with over 30% Asian-Canadians in the city?  Or in the suburb of Richmond where the population is now 60% Asian-Canadian.

I probably have it all wrong –again.

Canadian Living a Fragmented Mosaic of Asian Influences

Halong Bay, Vietnam 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis. Another tranquil Asian image.

Yet, I know my romanticizing of the East, is not the same as those who don’t have any family members from Asia.  The photos of my mother, still young and pretty in  her cheong-sam and striking a pose with her babies in Canada, is the beginning of why my dreams aren’t out to lunch.

The fact is  that I can see English script and often, can guess the original writer, began life by learning Chinese ideograms.  A tell-tale sign:  there is a certain consistent neatness in English handwriting. Or the fact, like a lot of Asians raised on home-Chinese cooking, we enjoy steamed fish in a bit of soy sauce, ginger root slices, green onions and oil.  To us, that’s highlighting quality fresh whole fish.  However a lot of non-Asians just see this steamed fish dish, as a boring, less dynamic  dish.

Steamed savoury egg custard with slices of beef flavoured with soy sauce, ginger root & onion. Dish seldom served in North American Chinese restaurants. But known & enjoyed by those born / raised on home Chinese cooking world-wide. 2012 Calgary.

Or that I enjoy savoury, steamed egg custard as comfort food for supper.  It has bits of sliced meat marinated with soy sauce cooked in a tasty, slightly watery custard.  Lovely with rice on the side and simple stir fried veggies.  But this custard dish rarely makes it to restaurant menus in North America.  Probably because it’s puzzling and not  as colourful as a heap of artfully stir-fried seafood with veggies.  Eating a wide range of Asian cuisines means appreciating a diverse range of food textures, contrasting flavours and colours in one meal.  My father’s favourite dish was steamed, lean pork slices with abit of salted fish to flavor the pork. We enjoyed it also –several times per month for dinner.

Like ordinary life, not dreams, I learned to cook rice in the pot over stove as a teenager. Electric rice pots only entered my life in my early 30’s.

Burning incense swirls around in temple. Changzhi, China 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

No wonder why my Asian dreams confuse me. These life memories are like colourful glass fragments in my shattered mosaic of understanding that I have had to piece together thoughtfully, over a long time.  These  experiences fused with dreams, probably only makes sense to me and others who bumble along in life.

But as time marches on and our world shrinks with personal blogs popping up from all over the globe, Asia looks less and less romantically exotic.  Globalization is making gelatos, sorbets and coffees popular in the big Asian cities. Even the Chinese and East Indians who have money are jumping on the European wine kick  –their romanticization of the West.

Or am I wrong?  Maybe it’s just me. I should just hop onto a plane and get to the truth of my arms-length, or ocean-length view of Asia. My parents have never wanted to return to China. For them, they probably rather keep the dreams of how it was before the Chinese-Japanese war and Communist takeover.

For now, I’m just content to explore Canada where I can still get lost in its vastness.

Further Reading:
Chong, Jean. Romanticizing the West:  Asian Craze for European Gourmet Desserts. In Cycle Write Blog, Feb. 2, 2012.

Seoul, South Korea 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

Cesky Krumlov: Czech Interpretations of Medieval and Renaissance Architecture

Cesky Krumlov, a UNESCO heritage site. View from its castle promenade. Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 For another architecturally rich visit in a quieter, smaller town beyond the hustle and bustle of Prague, is the town of Cesky Krumlov.    It is 180 km. southwest of Prague  –a pleasant train ride in old, but clean Czech trains.  We stowed our bikes into the bike train car and settled into our seats to watch the green countryside roll by, dotted with red roofed farmhouses.

As soon as one leaves the train station and rides into town, the preserved walls of the town begin to appear shortly and then you’re pedaling along cobblestone. The town was established in 1302 and ascended in its development to 1602.  During this time period, Cesky Krumlov lay near the juncture of Czech, Austrian, Bavarian (German) and Italian lands.

Looking up at Castle Watchtower from lower town of Cesky Krumlov. Tower has some triumph d’oeil painted on its facade to mimic brickwork and windows. Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Our overnight stay was in a historic guesthouse, Castle Stairs which was tucked under the spire-shadow of the Cesky Krumlov’s Castle Tower.  This was the same place where U.S. television travelogue broadcaster, Rick Steeves stayed.  The owner also ran a souvenier gift shop downstairs.  He generously allowed us to gingerly store our bikes inside the shop among some breakable knickknacks and glass display cases.  If there was an alternate bike parking spot in this historic medieval section of town, we certainly would have used it!

The castle promenade bridge was built later on top of the town’s Roman aqueduct. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

To explore  Cesky Krumlov, we spent the rest of the first day, walking. With the town split between an upper plateau level where the castle was located overlooking the lower level where the the townsfolk lived for centuries, it was just easier.  Otherwise, we would be grinding up and shaloming down slippery, cobblestone streets.

Trompe l’Oeil Without Being Cheesy
What was striking in the castle compound, was the use of trompe l’oeil on the building fascia and on the Castle Watchtower, or painted images to masquerade as bricks and stone. Now, to some visitors, this is cheesy but for a country like the Czech Republic, which already has numerous historic heritage buildings in Prague and elsewhere, it’s just abit more economical and practical.  After all, when I wandered about Prague, I kept wondering how could the city sustain the long-term cost of architectural restoration even with support from other external funding bodies. The Czech Republic has only recently embarked enthusiastically on the road to free-enterprise.

Castle’s gardens were located at the bottom of the hill. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Within half a block of our guesthouse, there was a centuries-old, walled royal bear compound where yes, two bears roamed around.  It was for the narcissistic pleasure of the royalty where ‘bear’  in part of the family name, Rozmburk  (or Rosenburg, depending how you transliterate it) and featured in the town’s crest. After touring the castle, I couldn’t help but wonder it was a luxurious, but lonely life in this rural part of the country for the Rozmburks.

Marionette peasant couple. Puppet Museum. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 An amble along the covered stone bridge down into the lower Cesky Krumlov, offered splendid panoramic views of Cesky Krumlov’s churches,  neatly kept homes below, the Vtalov River, undulating  green pastures and forests.  Here, the bridge is on top of a Roman acqueduct.

At the bottom of the castle, there were gardens and small fountains that mirrored very humbly to the more fabulous French Palace of Versailles-style gardens and topiary. 

Our meals were punctuated with gargantuous Czech dumplings that I wrote earlier in a blog post and the ubiquitous apple strudel. On the second day, we did some simple cycling around the edges of town before hauling ourselves and the bikes with panniers back onto the train.

Strolling and exploring Cesky Krumlov.Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong. The town has 300 buildings as part of the UNESCO heritage designation.

Cesky Krumlov offered us a relaxing, UNESCO designated historic ambiance of Czech expression for medieval and Renaissance architecture and art, in both high style as well as  burgher style where shopkeepers, tradesmen and workers lived.  It was seeing the best perserved slice of these architectural eras, outside of Prague.

Further Reading and Photos:
Cesky Krumlov’s official web site.

Chong, Jean. Come and Get Your Dumpling: West-East Comparisons. In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 25, 2010.

Romanticizing the Best: Asian Craze for Gourmet European Desserts

Popular European style bakery chain in South Korea, Paris Baguette Cafe. Changwon, South Korea 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Changwon has population of over 1 million.

Romanticizing either one’s own culture or another culture, can be as simple as introducing a foreign food dish, which becomes wildly popular over time.  Popular, because not only the dish tastes great, but the consumer purchases and enjoys the dish as partaking in a refined, higher class or more worldly expression of their personal taste.

Before you jump on me for being critical or elitist, especially for preparing your treasured family heirloom recipes, sit down and have a café with me. Hear me out.

Fine chocolate ganache cake at local bakery cafe. Seoul, South Korea 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

Asian Crazes:  European Gourmet Desserts
Traditional Asian cuisine is not known for baked elegant desserts at all.  Whatever desserts offered now in Asian bakeries, are an influence of a country’s European colonial past (ie. egg tarts in Macau are a Portuguese legacy; Filipino pastries, a Spanish adaptation) or simply a local baker, restauranteur who loved European desserts and understood their patrons’ need to end a meal with a sweet, elegant flourish.

More upscale local bakery cafe with European pastries and ambience. Seoul, South Korea 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

Last autumn, Jack sampled both  Asian street food and some gourmet European cake slices when he was in Taipei, Tawain and in South Korea on business trips.  On both occasions, he found the bakery cafes when he wandered around in the cities’  core shopping areas.

Petite four desserts with a coffee or tea. Strasbourg, France 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Little tartlets and squares with some made from marzipan (almond paste).

The cakes were quite good which is a compliment from someone raised by a German mother.  His mother loved preparing elegant multi-layered cake tortes, linzertorte (hazelnut tart with raspberry almond filling), plum kuchens and wonderful cookies by using traditional techniques.  Not surprisingly his maternal line, has pastry chefs and restauranteurs back to the 1700’s.

Former Chinatown Desserts: Chiffon and Sponge Cake-like Creations
Over 25 years ago, the few Asian bakeries that I knew in Canadian Chinatowns, offered very limited desserts that were primarily egg or coconut tarts, buns filled with whipping crème, and savoury fillings such was ham, barbecued pork or even (gasp), wieners. The cake and bun crumb tended to be primarily sponge or chiffon cake-like textures –safe, bland, simple ingredients and not too sweet for Asian palates.   Strangely, I never saw muffins nor pies in those bakeries at that time.

German pastries at local outdoor farmers’ market. Freiburg, Germany 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Not all are commonly found in North American bakeries but for local Germans are low-cost, but freshly baked dessert snacks.

Now, in bigger Canadian cities, Vancouver and Toronto, there are more Asian bakeries and large Asian supermarkets that will offer a bit more  –such as mousse cakes and fruit tartlets along side the egg custard tarts and savoury buns. I’m not sure how many have jumped onto the phyllo pastry bandwagon but it’s just a matter of time:  phyllo pastry is so easy to work with and bakes quickly.

Elegant cake choices at Ganache Patisserie in chic Yaletown. Vancouver BC 2010. Photo by J. Chong

The greatest compliment for adopting a foreign dish, occurs when a  chef or baker embraces traditional techniques, transforms the dish into several different unique variations and creates a business that garners fans.

Ganache Patisserie, a gourmet cake bakery café in the hip Yaletown, Vancouver BC offers walk-in  customers a fabulous range of different elegant cake slices and if needed, customized wedding cakes. The pastry chef is Henry Hwang who picked up his skills in France.

Mango creme puff, one of several flavours at Cruffs. Calgary AB 2011. Photo by J. Chong. Bakery was started up by 2 brothers from Indonesia where the pastry chef previously ran a bakery for 4 yrs.

Meanwhile in prairie city of Calgary, brothers Mario and Ignas Adiwibawa from Indonesia,  launched their crème puff bakery , Cruffs two years ago  in the trendy Mission area.  Mario, the baker added more baking skills to his culinary arsenal after attending a culinary school in Vancouver.

Previously he ran a bakery for 4 years in Indonesia.  They offer their crème puffs with choice fillings which include:  Irish Crème Baileys, pistachio, hazelnut chocolate, mango, lemon and green tea.   Recently they offered a blueberry creme puff.

In 2012 they are venturing into a version of an Indonesian pastry, roti, a Dutch colonial by product.  Their Indonesian coffee based roti, will be rebranded with a different name to avoid confusion with Caribbean and South Asian spicy curry savoury rotis stuffed with sauce, veggies or meat.

Edible dragon pastry decorates a bed of creme puffs. For Year of the Dragon, Chinese New Year 2012 celebrations. Cruffs Bakery, Calgary AB 2012

For those whose cultural heritage includes these fine dessert inspirations, it is simply a wonderful memory and casual touchstone to enjoy a dessert well executed even if the chef came from a  country located far from the dessert’s origins.

Stay tuned for romanticizing a culture feature of the East by the West.

Lake Louise Snowshoeing: Snow Glazed Mountains, Ice Castles and Bison Reuben Sandwiches

Like every mountain snow-starved urbanite, we head to our choice mountain area for some snowshoeing.  This time after an overnight stay in Banff, Alberta, we went to Lake Louise to explore both some familiar and other new trails.

Snowshoeing on the Tramline trail between village of Lake Louise and Chateau Lake Louise. Alberta 2012. Photo by J.Chong

I last visited Lake Louise twelve years ago in the fall, when we were travelling across Canada from Toronto in a small moving van when Jack first relocated to Vancouver.  On earlier trips, I had seen Lake Louise, dazzling in her turquoise bejewelled summer waters when 2 years prior to my move, we cycled on the Continental Divide route to the town of Field.

Area becomes a mecca for hiking, mountaineering and winter sports –as promised by vintage poster. Archival display at Lake Louise Visitors’ Centre 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Along the way, we spied a baby bear playing by a stream.  That meant mama bear was near by. We scrambled onto our bikes and spun as fast as we could up a hill along with an overly ripe banana inside my pannier.  Another time, when we cross-country skied the Continental Divide for 18 km., I recalled a nagging fear as the wind blew slanted with snow falling steadily:  we saw no one for over an hour while we crossed the snowy foothills under towering mountain shadows.  I wondered if I would finish the route before nightfall.  I was not a good cross-country skier.

Cradled Among Snow-Draped Evergreen Forests
Between the village of Lake Louise and the world-famous iconic hotel, Chateau Lake Louise by the lake, it was a perfect 11 km. snowshoeing round trip with some gradual hills, groomed trails flanked by snow-draped thick evergreen forests and rising mountains ahead at each bend.  Every winter, I always forget how much snowshoeing energy is burned up, especially when I suck in dry, fresh and pure air.

On High Line snowshoe trail. Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta 2012. Photo by HJEH Becker

While traversing through these soaring forests topped with snowy creaminess, you are cradled along Nature’s protective snow forest canals, away from harsh winds.

To avoid the avalanche of tourists and higher accommodation prices, we were there a week after New Year’s Day.  Perfect, since we had the trails to ourselves, and attentive restaurant servers.

This time the Chateau Lake Louise had its first  ice castle sculpture of the year, planted at the lake edge where skaters swirled around it.  In a few weeks, there will be more ice sculptures to draw more visitors until the icy creations melt down.

Lovely lady figurine chandeliers in different areas of Chateau Lake Louise, Banff National Park. Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Though I had been in the famous hotel, Chateau Lake Louise, I had not seen it since its last major retrofit.   The hotel is a historic evocation of Canadian Pacific Rail’s few deluxe, luxury  hotels along its main railroad across Canada. It was first built in 1890.

To keep visitors entertained and satisfy their adventurous spirit, both Lake Louise and Banff  became a mecca for hikers and mountain climbers.  In the late 19th century, Canadian Pacific Railway hired Swiss guides to develop its network of trails. In the Chateau, at Parks Canada visitors’ centre and at the Whyte Museum in Banff, the mountaineering , backcountry skiing and hiking legacy is highlighted.

Bison reuben sandwiches with red cabbage slaw and handmade aioli — elegant fireside culinary grubb at the Chateau. Lake Louise, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

 Evocation of Refined Adventure Travel And Grub
Chateau Lake Louise has some lovely figurehead chandeliers, wild animal taxidermy pieces (or simulations) and occasional curious wall tapestries to emulate baronial furnishings. By the third floor entrance stairway landing, is a wall hanging that is a tongue-in-cheek Canadian  parody of the renaissance pastoral vision:  a caribou or deer  seems to be swimming through the lake.

Curious tapestry with mock renaissance pastoral visions with deer (or elk) swimming in lake. Chateau Lake Louise, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

In the Lakeview Lounge, we munched happily through the restaurant’s signature bison reuben sandwiches with delicately grated red cabbage and their house aioli. Surely, the

Mountain ice climber spotted while snowshoeing around Lake Louise. 2012. Photo by J. Becker

finest interpretation of the local fireside grub.  A memorable lunch with a lakeside view of Temple Mountain, its glacier, ice castle and horse drawn sleigh before we hit the downhill Tramline snowshoe trail back to the village.

Further Reading and More Adventures:
History of Chateau Lake Louise.

Chong, Jean.  Canadian Reindeer Look-alikes:  Caribou, Elk and Mule Deer.  In Cycle Write Blog. Dec. 26, 2011.

Chong, Jean. More Snowshoeing for Snow Mountain Addicts and the Vertigo Inclined. In Cycle Write Blog. Feb. 12, 2011.

Ice castle at edge of Lake Louise in front of the Chateau. Lake Louise, Banff National Park 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Chong, Jean.  Rocky Mountain Cycling Interlude:  Bighorn Sheep, Ragged Peaks and Turquoise Waters.  In Cycle Write Blog.  Aug. 4, 2011.

Chong, Jean.  Roaming Around for Bison:  Distinctly North American, Lean and Maybe Gourmet. In Cycle Write Blog. Dec. 17, 2010.

Zen Proverb on Bicycling

Scene while cycling on edge of town, Lahaini. Island of Maui, Hawaii 2009. Photo by J. Chong

 A Zen teacher saw five of his students returning from the market, riding their bicycles. When they arrived at the monastery and had dismounted, the teacher asked the students, “Why are you riding your bicycles?”

The first student replied, “The bicycle is carrying this sack of potatoes. I am glad that I do not have to carry them on my back!” The teacher praised the first student. “You are a smart boy! When you grow old, you will not walk hunched over like I do.”

The second student replied, “I love to watch the trees and fields pass by as I roll down the path!” The teacher commended the second student, “Your eyes are open, and you see the world.”

The third student replied, “When I ride my bicycle, I am content to chant nam myoho renge kyo.” The teacher gave his praise to the third student, “Your mind will roll with the ease of a newly trued wheel.”

Toronto, ON 2008. Accompanying Jack to train station for one of his solo trips in Quebec.

 The fourth student replied, “Riding my bicycle, I live in harmony with all sentient beings.” The teacher was pleased and said to the fourth student, “You are riding on the golden path of non-harming.”

The fifth student replied, “I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle.” The teacher sat at the feet of the fifth student and said, “I am your student.”

Cycling on new CP rail converted bike path by Edwards Gardens. Toronto, ON 2011.

  N.B.: My thanks to Barb, another cycling ethusiast in Washington state, where I first saw this proverb. Her blog offers a wonderful list of blogs written by women cyclists worldwide.

Canadian Reindeer Look-Alikes: Elk, Caribou and Mule Deer

A few weeks ago, Ava, a Filipino blog reader wondered what elk was after I mentioned we were going to have elk for our Christmas meal.

So after plumbing into our well of digital photo archives, I resurfaced with some wonderful photos:  I just could not write a blog post that featured a dish of meat against these magnificent animals. 

Male mule deer as distinguished by its rack of antlers which they shed every February. Banff National Park, by Vermillion Lake. Alberta 2002. Photo by HJEH Becker

It is not a contradiction for me since I do eat meat several times per month – very lean meat and seafood. We buy directly from farmers who raise elk and deer for meat.  They are there at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, along with the bison ranchers.  We only have this meat several times annually since it is not cheap but in Alberta, the quality is excellent and it is locally raised.

These blog photos were taken in the Canadian national parks where these animals are protected wildlife. Our  photos were taken in the national parks of Banff and Jasper.  Hunting is illegal and for a good reason.  As more tourists pile into the parks, roads and trails built for human travel, the wildlife are increasingly pushed  further away from their natural feeding and grazing areas.  Several million visitors visit these parks annually year round.  These parks are rock-stars that give Canada the world-wide fame for its many million hectares of remote, awe-inspiring mountain wilderness and wildlife.

Woodland Caribou Herds –Recovery of  Endangered Species
Most recently the Canadian federal government authority, Parks Canada that is responsible for federal, protected wildlife and national park areas across Canada, have  

Male elk, probaby a teenager. Along Bow Valley Parkway, Banff National Park. Alberta March 2001. Photo by HJEH Becker. Elk are also wapiti in the Shawnee First Nations language.

 raised the numbers of the endangered species, the woodland caribou in the Albertan Rocky Mountains.  Some caribou will be returned to their natural habitat starting this year.  (Sorry, we don’t have any personal photos.)

Secondly, starting in 2013, Parks Canada will shut down the Bow Valley Parkway highway annually  from Banff to Lake Louise,  at night during March to July to prevent car traffic. This quieter highway is parallel to the busy Trans-Canada Highway.   This effort will be enforced and allow the wildlife to move down from the mountains to graze freely  in their natural feeding areas and migrate about undistributed.  

Hungry After Every Snowy Mountain Winter
In March 2001, we saw a lot of deer and some elk when we drove along the Parkway. The snow along the road had melted off and the naked mountain sides had not fully bloomed with their tender spring green tree buds.  Many of these animals looked thin after long, snowy mountain winter and were scrounging around for food near the roadside in the forested areas.

Small crowd of hungry elk feeding by Bow Valley Parkway. Banff National Park, Alberta March 2001. Photo by HJEH Becker. That is an elk with 1 antler. Stags (male elk) have antlers.

  This is Nature’s typical cycle of animals either re-emerging after winter hibernation or subsisting on their fat during long cold winters in the northern hemispheres when temperatures drop well below freezing and there is less plant life for food.

These animals might be deemed as reindeer by romantics, but they are not. The First Nations people in this part of Canada, didn’t domesticate them for pulling loads.  They are wildlife and if encountered as a cyclist or hiker, is to learn not to startle them and distance yourself quickly.  In the 1990′s, wild elk ventured often into Banff town site which caused problems in some attacks on humans, feeding on gardens and damaging trees.  Regular elk visitors were referred by locals as “townies”.  Now the elk tend to stay away from the urban areas which is a good thing for both the animals and humans.  They are never to be fed by humans.

Pair of young wild mule deer checking out a local Swiss-Italian restaurant. Banff, Alberta Jan. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

  I have some more photos which have not been digitized.  There is another personal photo treasure: another magnificent brown elk munching on a pink flower bud in its mouth.  One day later and soon!

More Reading:
Parks Canada.  Elk in Banff National Park.

Parks Canada. Species At Risk: Woodland Caribou.  Nov. 2011. Photos of caribou for you to see the differences from elk and mule deer.

900 Years of Architectural Legacy: Why Prague is a Royal Empress

Some art work on building facades. New Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

I had heard of Prague’s splendid old World charm.  But I was unprepared for the city’s dizzying variety and historical compression of architectural centuries at each street corner and with each turn of my head.  Good thing we could explore its astonishing richness of Romanesque, medieval, baroque, renaissance, gothic and art nouveau building wonders, by bike and on foot.   Of course, we could not miss out on some of its stunning cathedrals and museum collections.

During Peak Tourist Season and IFA Soccer Craze
We were there last year for 4 days with an interlude of another 2 days at the UNESCO Heritage site, the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov.  Not only were we in Prague during peak tourist season in June, but also in the midst of IFA soccer fan crowds glued to  jumbo tv screens mounted in old public square, to watch championship playoffs.

St. Wenceslas Square with some manicured gardens in its central boulevard. Prague, 2010. Photo by J. Chong

  Though we stayed in staid sounding Best Western Pave, the hotel was also plunked in a historic neighbourhood. Just next door was a pub with gold filigreed sign, where we heard at night, the raucous cheering and conversation. There must have been also an IFA tv screen tucked somewhere at the bar.  Clean and modern with a curving iron wrought and wood rail and pseudo-marble steps, this chain hotel suggested a previous independent hotel of some vintage.

Panoramic view of Old Town Prague, from Prague Castle 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Lost in Wonder –Literally
It’s amusing to see Prague’s official tourism web site which emblazons one of its information sections:  “How Not to Get Lost”.  Obviously we weren’t the only ones.  Normally, Jack has good wayfinding  geo-spatial sense in strange cities and places where we’ve travelled far and wide.  However in parts of Prague’s Old Town and New Town, we did get slightly lost since neither of us could even guess at Czech letter script to  memorize old street names properly.  But getting occasionally lost for fifteen minutes or so nearly daily, was negligible time lost for seeing along our cobblestoned way, fantastic decorated building facia, gargoyles, stained glass, mounted sculptures, murals –it’s an architect’s, art lover’s and historian’s dream.  If not that, 

Abbey section of St. George's Basilica. Old Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Romanesque paintings. Rare to see paintings depicting abbesses, nuns or any female church order in many well-known European churches that I visited during my trip. However a greater likelihood sometimes in very early medieval liturgical art.

 Prague is a beguiling teacher on over 900 years of European architectural history, just by wandering around slack –jawed in area of less than 10  square kilometers.

How could any ex-Prague citizen find any of our North American cities as artfully intriguing?  There was the Astronomical Clock at the Old Town Square Tower where upon the strike of clock tower bell, the painted and gold figurines of 12 apostles moved.  The Tower dates back to 1338.  We would pass by it  several times, to walk from one pedestrianized street,  old square to another.  Cycling in an enjoyable way, was abit useless among these crowds. Besides, you would miss out on seeing the city’s building splendor up  close. 

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When we had one of our first dinners outside in a public square, St. Nicholas Cathedral  loomed above us, less than 10 feet away. Unfortunately it was closed and somehow I forgot to revisit the place when it was open since I got distracted by the magnificence of St. Vitus’s Cathedral (which I described earlier in another blog post with photos of  its  dazzling stained glass art).  Or another nearby  church-convent, St. George’s Basilica where to the one side was St. George’s abbey dating from 972 with preserved Romanesque mural paintings of several abbesses, a rare thing to see a female church order painted on a large scale inside churches.

Cubistic contemporary building complex amongst heritage buildings. New Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Another time, as we strolled yet another narrow, clean street, we passed by suddenly some Cubistic-like buildings.  Prague was like that:  frequent, unexpected delight of structures from different eras intermixed along the same street, as well as sculptures, carvings and fanciful metalwork adorning building entrances, windows or roof eaves.

I wondered how on earth the city secured the funds to restore its national heritage buildings. It must be an ongoing process of grant applications and lobbying funding bodies and philanthropists.

Silver liturgical art work. St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Evening with Baroque Music
To lure tourists with its cultural arts, nearly every day there were a few classical music concerts. How could we as baroque music fans, resist?  So we treated ourselves with tickets, to a live chamber concert of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Pachabel’s Canon at Municipal Hall.  The Hall was a stodgy shaped building but was wonderfully embellished with art nouveau art pieces both inside and outside its walls. That evening  less than 100 people attended the concert in a cavernous musical hall that could seat well over 800 people.  But no matter, the soaring music lifted us along with also distractions of the building’s interior.

Fierce protectors guarding at Prague Castle's gates. 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 In tune with the spirit of cultural arts, we winded through the Museum of Musical Instruments, Prague’s City Museum, National Museum and a building near St. Wenceslas Square which I cannot remember its name, that featured soaring ceiling and wall art nouveau murals in expansive public meeting rooms.

We did the slow typical stroll across Charles Bridge, first built in the 14th century with over 12 statutes which are now replaced with copies. After drinking in the panoramic sight of terra cotta roofed buildings and winding narrow cobblestone streets, we spent time at the Prague Castle, Sternberg Palace and the cathedrals mentioned earlier.

Stroll along in Prague 2010. Photo by J.Chong. Notice on halfway on right, a deer sculpture ready to leap out of a window.

Cuisine More Heartiness than Gastronomic
No doubt we were in heavy tourist areas which most likely obscured whatever better Czech cuisine we could have had beyond dumplings, meat, strudel and  heavier cakes than what we had in southern Germany.  Or just mediocre Italian or even Asian cuisine. Only pure pragmatism of cycling with double pannier weight, prevented me from buying tempting Czech wine since we still had over a week in Copenhagen ahead of us.  After all, Czech wines are not often found in Canada.

Stained glass art. St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Jewel that Survived War and Revolution
It’s even more astounding that Prague’s architectural and artistic magnificence has survived several waves of political revolution. Most  recently after World War II, the Czech Republic was part the Soviet Communist bloc before its final dissolution in the early 1980’s.   Not surprisingly, in 1992 the whole historic city core of over 800 hectares, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Contemporary sun dial art installation in the midst of medieval and Rennaissance era buildiings. Old Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Prague overwhelms you with her magnitude of visual history, time layers of artistic inspiration and craftsmanship, all  jammed side by side, along its narrow cobblestone twisting streets.  Even after 5 days there, we knew we had not seen all of this wonderful empress of European cities.

Further Reading (and Photos):
Becker, Jack. Cycling in Prague.  In Third Wave Cycling Blog, Jun. 26, 2010.

Chong, Jean. Come and Get Your Dumplings: Some West-East Comparisons.  In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 25, 2010

Chong, Jean.  Stained Glass Art: A European Sampler of Refracted Light and Colour. In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 17, 2010.  More photos of this artwork in St. Vitus Cathedral and in Municipal Hall.

Official Prague Tourism site.

Rocky Mountain Cycling Interlude: Bighorn Sheep, Ragged Peaks and Turquoise Waters

One of several wild bighorn sheep at Lake Minnewanka. Banff National Park, Alberta Aug. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Lake Minnewanka 16 km. road circuit is just a short detour from Banff Legacy Bike Path between Canmore and Banff.

You don’t need to be a mountain biker to see mountain ranges up close, orange paintbrush mountain flowers or herds of wild bighorn sheep with their babies. We just returned from several great days of cycle-touring in the Canmore-Banff area, which is over 120 km. north of Calgary. 

Banff Legacy Bike Path between Canmore and Banff. Alberta August 2011. Photo by J. Chong

 In  the past, we have toured the area by bike between Banff and Lake Louise, as well as on the Canadian Continental Divide near Field, British Columbia.  Within Lake Louise and Continental Divide, we have also cross-country skied and hiked at different times.  (Winter avalanche warnings are real.)  The first time was by car before we switched to self-propelled means.

Each trip has been a different experience with unexpected surprises.

This time, we wondered if we had encountered the next generation of bighorn sheep on bike, since we saw these same creatures over a decade ago in the same vicinity, Lake Minnewanka.  Except last time it was in the quiet winter stillness when we were safely protected in our car. There were no other tourists around us at that time.

Mature male bighorn sheep. Lake Minnewanka, Banff National Park. Alberta Aug. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

 Bighorn sheep sighting is just a 10 km. detour off of the new 26-km.  Banff Legacy Bike Path between Canmore and Banff.  You must cycle over an electrified pavement section less than a few metres wide, without stopping as instructed by the sign, to make the turn-off.  The bike path just has a few electrified sections to keep the wildlife from tromping into the path.  Elk and deer are common in this area –even occasionally near the major highway which we did see last winter. Bears and bighorn sheep are also frequent this area but in abit more remote areas. 

15 km. south of Canmore, Old Banff Coach Rd. (Highway 1A), Alberta. Aug. 2010. Photo by HJEH Becker

In the Banff area and nearby, the Trans Canada highway cuts across major wildlife migration crossings. There are both built overpasses and underpasses for these wildlife migration paths and to protect humans.

Valleyview Park stopover halfway along Legacy Path. Banff National Park, Alberta Aug. 2011. Photo by J. Chong

 During this past weekend, there was a cougar attack on a child at Barrier Lake over 40 kms. away from our area. Certain wooded areas in Lake Minnewanka are off-limits to hikers during these summer months because of bear attacks which have occurred several times in recent years. 

Several Local Mountains Loom From Different Angles
Along the Legacy Path, there were several well-known mountains and rock formations  in view at a cyclist’s pace:  Castle Mountain, Sulphur Mountain, the Hoodoos, Mount Rundle (made of several mountains totalling 17 kms. across) and so on. Too bad we didn’t time our trips to see these mountains at sunset. But at least on bike, there’s time to position oneself for the best shots. 

Lake Minnewanka, Banff National Park. Alberta Aug. 2011. Photo by J.Chong

 In Canmore, the Three Sisters Mountains were often in view, from different angles. 

I’m sure I saw Ha Ling Peak since we did go cycling on various routes locally from different points in town. Ha Ling was named after a Chinese cook for the Canadian Pacific Railway who climbed the mountain twice in 1896, just to prove that he actually could do it. On the second time, he planted a larger flag at the summit for the townspeople of Canmore to see. It was named Chinaman’s Peak but renamed in 1997 to Ha Ling to remove the historic derogatory term of Chinaman.

Cycling on a bike path along an active rail line at sunset. Canmore, Alberta Aug. 2011. Photo by J. Chong

 Canmore now has become more established and upscale than we knew it over a decade ago.  For tourists it is less frenetic, less costly and more relaxed to stay here in the summer compared to Banff.  This year our trip coincided with their annual Folk Music Festival.

Bike ride on trail section shared with horseback riding group. Below Banff Springs Hotel. Aug. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

 While cycling to our hotel at the northern edge of Canmore, a sharp high whistle pierced through the air above the buzz of moderate car traffic beside me. Suddenly I saw  a row of 6 tiny brown-grey pikas shoot out of their burrows from the road bank in a high-speed scamper to safety 3 metres on the other side of the embankment.  It was wild rodent action, all in perfect sychronicity within the blink of an eye.

With some headwinds and tailwinds to challenge and delight us on our bike trips, we look forward to more adventures ahead to the Canadian Rocky Mountain area.

Note:  The Canadian National Rocky Mountain Parks of: Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Yoho are together as a continguous set of peaks, a  UNESCO designated World Heritage Site.   More photos of this trip and areas near by are here.