Injecting Life and Identity: Outdoor Public Art in the Prairies

When the prairies lack a rich, green tree canopy in its cities, outdoor public art injects animated life. That is, certain types of art works. Rolling oceans of grass, brilliant blue sky expanses that are Nature’s canvas for dynamic cloud shapes, are already fantastic abstracts for me.

Folk art mounted outdoors at a private home. Has most iconic prairie images. Inglewood area, Calgary AB 2013. Wood grain elevators now increasingly rare heritage prairie structures. Features even mountain sheep on mountain slopes. Photo by J. Chong

Beyond Artifice of Abstract Art- Search for Prairie Identity 
For now, I don’t need to see many large pieces of abstract art in public spaces. Not yet, especially in Calgary, which is still trying to articulate without artifice, its natural history, environment and cultural heritage beyond just cowboys and oil wells. The city is rapidly

Blackfoot Indian dancer in vibrant splendour on utility box. By Erlton LRT station. 2012. Photo by J Chong. Commissioned by City of Calgary.

expanding like a pea-brained amoeba across its grassy oceans. Like a teenager, it preens to the world, whatever it defines as cool, hip and innovative, art-wise. Meanwhile Calgary still struggles to define its own identity art-wise with more mature diverse art expressions in Toronto, Quebec and Canadian Pacific Northwest coast.

Flip side of utility box features tepee. Calgary AB 2012. Photo by J Chong

Need More Prairie Art with Rooted Soul
I’m still hoping for large, expansive outdoor art that celebrates this part of Canada. Art with rooted soul. Perhaps my search reflects me, as a transplant from Ontario and British Columbia. I wish to see momumental artistic expression that is indigenous to the

Mocassined dancing shoes juxtaposed against more recent cowboy boot stampin’ celebrations. Near Calgary Stampede grounds 2012. Photo by J Chong

prairies. Any visitor to the prairies wants to see how the Muse comments and visualizes its natural surroundings and local history. Then the abstract art can follow later.

It’s taken me some time to track down some in situ, prairie art works in my meandering bike rides and by browsing the local news. Most of these pieces are quite recent.

Only recently, the City of Calgary has commissioned some larger painted art imagery on its utility boxes –a vibrant, welcome change. Previous older works were too small and pale for any pedestrian, cyclist or car driver to even notice. True, some of the designs reflect the Calgary Stampede heritage with horses and cowboy boots.

Metal horses galloping near the Alberta courthouse. Refreshing breakaway metal art in downtown. Photo by J Chong 2011.

However, there is an art piece that celebrates the local Blackfoot heritage with an aboriginal woman in flamboyant dress and colour.

Large Scale Solo Aboriginal Images of Pride, Not Showcased In Heavy Public Areas
It’s rare to see strong public art imagery of local aboriginals by themselves without being surrounded by trappings of miners, cowboys and oil rigs. Or worse a statue hidden in the corner of a farmers’ market, etc. Yes, that’s reality too, but it’s doubtful that it’s a self-assured statement of aboriginal identity. Based on the paucity of large permanent outdoor art on aboriginal cultural heritage in this part of the prairies, their voices have been muffled with the buffalo stampede of urbanization.

Bison statue by bike-pedestrian path at Fort Calgary 2012. Until recently, it was half hidden by bushes. Photo by J Chong

So different than being in Vancouver where there are several galleries and museums that feature exclusively aboriginal art and cultural heritage which are world-class known. You are greeted at the Vancouver International Airport with multiple large pieces of permanent aboriginal carvings and sculptures. Then greeted again by a blend of traditional totems and innovative aboriginal carvings in Stanley Park.

Bronze sculpture art tableau of cowboys and horses in water. Oil Sands Plaza, Stampede Grounds by Saddledome. Calgary AB 2012.

May be I’ll find the rare permanent outdoor aboriginal art in a Calgary park or along its path, that celebrates the Blackfoot Indians. For now, we settle for the beloved bronze black bison statue by the bike path at Fort Calgary.

During one of my bike rides, I encountered the artist flourishing brushes on her design that commemorates Canada’s national music heritage. The utility box art design is across the street from the future site of the Canadian National Music

Finishing touches on music-inspired art work on utility box. Across from future site for Canadian National Museum of Music, former King Edward Hotel. Calgary AB 2012. Photo by J Chong

Museum, the former King Edward Hotel, a place where there was some active jazz music performances. I guess we’ll learn more when the museum opens. I’m all for a Canadian place that highlights Oscar Peterson, the Canadian black jazz pianist that lived and died recently in Mississauga, Ontario. No doubt, the museum will commemorate other Canadian world performers in folk, country and western music as well as rock ‘n roll and pop. Maybe this will spawn more outdoor visual local art.

Wire metal head sculpture permanent art at front plaza in Bow Building. Downtown Calgary, AB. Photo by J. Becker 2013

Horses Favoured Over Picas and Wild Jack Rabbits
Always an eternal favourite artistic icon in the prairies for freedom and independence, are horses. We see them galloping wildly or tethered, working loyally for man. Now, we have yet to see the wild rabbits and tiny pika or this rodent, dubbed locally, as prairie dogs, to be featured prominently in outdoor art anywhere. May be wild jack rabbits could be mistakenly

2012 mural depicts riotous colour of movement –people, cars, bike and train. Along bike-pedestrian underpass at Inglewood 9th Ave SW. Calgary AB, below an active rail line and road bridge above the Elbow River. Photo by J Chong

painted as Beatrix Potter children’s storybook creatures? Are the cute pikas are too tiny? In other words, are these smaller animals, not in keeping with the wild west romance?

Autumn fireball sunset overlooking southeast Calgary hills. By J Chong 2012. Is scenery like this too ordinary to capture on large scale outdoor public art for urban Calgarians?

Well, may be we’ll see if a bold artist can clearly express in outdoor art, the majesty of thunderstorm clouds towering in darkening anger across an azure blue sky ocean above a diminished cityscape and yellowed grasslands. Just don’t borrow the Rocky Mountains for the painting –they’re over 100 km. away.

More Interesting Reading and Photos
Chong, J. Aboriginal Artistic Interpretations: Exploring Connection, Disconnection and Transformation. In Cycle Write Blog, Feb.3, 2010. Photos of some British Columbia Northwest coastal aboriginal artistic expression and culture.

Escaping Slavery into Ontario: Underground Railroad Spawned Afro-Canadian Communities

As a 12 year-old, I launched my understanding of the 1960’s civil rights movement with the Civil War, the slave aboltionists and  Harriet Tubman.  She was an Afro-American former slave who helped some slaves escape to Canada by using the Underground

Quilt highlights slaves’ flight to freedom via the Underground Railroad, a loose network of people that worked secretly to guide slaves into Canada. Chatham, ON 2009. Photo by J.Chong

Railroad, a loose network of people who guided  30,000 escapees secretly northward.

I had heard of the book Uncle Tom’s Cabin, written by Harriet Beecher Stowe. But I had no idea that Uncle Tom’s cabin was actually a real Canadian home  –of Josiah Henson, a former black slave from Maryland.

Chatham-Kent County area an agricultural area for Ontario. Known for tomato production. Dresden ON 2009.

However decades later, I visited several times, a close friend who lived deep in  Ontario’s tomato country.  Here truck convoys of tomatoes lined up at the Heinz processing plant  every fall.  My friend lived near the heritage site of Uncle Tom’s cabin, in Dresden.

New Dawn Settlement: Utopian Vision Realized
Dresden was known to the blacks who settled there, as the New Dawn Settlement.

In this town, as well within a 75 km. radius, are heritage buildings, commemorative plaques and tiny local museums that mark the  legacy of tough former slaves and their descendants.  New Dawn Settlement was built for and by former slaves. It included some cabins, a mill,  a sawmill and an industrial training shop.

Known as “topsy-turvy” dolls before the Civil War. Choose either black or white doll that are joined together. Buxton Museum, ON 2009. Part of private special collection. Photo by J. Chong

When you see these sites, it makes our 21st century efforts of do-it-yourself  living, super pale.

These people were eking out food and living from the land in a society, with still residual trappings of racial discrimination. Canada had some of its own former slaves (Slavery was abolished in 1793 in Upper Canada), still its own laws and societal restrictions that segregated blacks in the 19th century which may have not been as corrosive as the U.S., but wouldn’t have immediately invited blacks in hallowed echelons of white upper class or even middle class.

Thriving Buxton: News for U.S. President Lincoln
We headed over to Buxton where there used to be a thriving black community in the 1800s, that offered cultural activities in music, drama and fine arts to its own residents. There was even a sizable school for black kids that was built by the visionary Reverend King, who was a former slave owner in Louisiana.

Spencer Alexander, assistant curator, a 6th generation of former slaves, gives tour of schoolhouse for black children. His father taught up to 3 generations of children. Buxton, ON 2009. Photo by J.Chong

Fortunately we were given an impromptu tour by Spencer Alexander who was a 6th generation descendant of Underground Railroad fugitives.  He was from a line of school teachers in this area which include his father and great grandfather.

Rows of wooden desks with inkwell desktop holes and iron legs were kept for present day educational sessions to teach current schoolchildren about hardship of post slavery days.

Thriving, Intellectually Engaged Community: Black Doctors, Newspaper Editor
The importance of literacy as the road to self-determination and community intellectual growth, by mastering reading, writing and basic numeracy skills, was evident. There was a  mini black renaissance of home-grown arts and intellectuals.  While while the U.S. Civil War was brewing, this area of Canada produced 6 black doctors.

Buxton-Dresden area became a small community with some black intelligentsia and high active, engaged locals. Buxton Museum 2009.

Dr. Anderson Abott was the first Canadian-born black doctor with his medical degree in 1861 from University of Toronto.  He joined a corps of only 8 black surgeons in the U.S. to serve in the Union Army during the Civil War before he returned to Canada.

At a museum, we poured over a special collection of toys of former slave children, quilts and displays that meticulously highlighted achievements of a richly lived community.

A class photo in late 1800s. Buxton ON. Photo by J. Chong

Mary Ann Shadd Carey, was an energetic newspaper editor for the Provincial Freeman which catered to the Canadian and northern U.S. abolitionlists on anti-slavery news.  She was an African-American that emigrated to Canada in 1831. She produced the

Mary Shadd Carey, editor for the Provincial Freeman, an anti-slavery newspaper for Canada and northern U.S. abolitionists. Buxton, ON 2009. Photo by J.Chong. Park had just been completed.

newspaper on her own hand press which ran until 1860,  The newspaper expressed the black political discourse of the times.

In the cities and towns of Amherstburg, St. Catharines, Chatham and Niagara Falls Ontario / Niagara-on-the-Lake, there are more stories and achievements of former slaves who have gone on to settle peacefully and rebuild their lives.

A slice of history that has only come to light within the last 20 years for others outside of this region. The Internet, as well as government funding for research and historical preservation, has broadened awareness in ways not possible before, without visiting the area.

It was only decades ago, I still remember media stories of people risking their lives in the dash for freedom over the Berlin Wall that divided West and East Germany or swimming across the waters from the iron grip of Communist China into Hong Kong.

Schoolhouse for black children of former slaves started in 1861 – 1970. First most northernly all black school in North America. Buxton, Ontario. Canada 2009. Photo by J. Chong. Several doctors, lawyers and American politicians came from this school.

In Canada we don’t even have to go overseas to find exotic stories and monuments for escapades to liberation.  Look no further than  the Underground Railroad southern Ontario along the Canada – U.S. border.

More Interesting Reading:
Note: Over 2 million slaves came from Africa 1680-1862 to the U.S.  4 million slaves in total worldwide from Africa.
Buxton National Historic Site and Museum.  Ontario. Provides also some short video clips on key historic dates and events that mark the abolition of slavery in Canada, the role of the Underground Railroad, development of Ontario black communities near the Canada-U.S. border and the scale of the slave trade world-wide from Africa.

Video clip narrated by curator, Shannon Prince at Buxton Museum, in the schoolhouse. Underground Railroad: Buxton School. Includes special, secret code used by people and slaves to escape to Canada.

Home cabin on Buxton Museum grounds. 2009. Photo by J. Chong

Institut Historica Canada.  Dresden, Ontario:  New Dawn Settlement. In Black History in Canada:  Black Settlement in Early Canada.New Dawn Settlement Tour. Dresden, Ontario.   Gives map at the end with detailed text of historic sites.

Ontario Heritage Trust.  Slavery to Freedom History: The Underground Railroad.

Ontario Heritage Trust. Uncle Tom’s Cabin.

Cycling Greenways – Umbilical Cord to My Past Neighbourhoods: Prairies, West Coast and Ontario

A  long bike route near home, joins my memories like a green umbilical cord, to places where I’ve lived and biked in Canada for the past 22 years.  My green route curls and unwinds in Toronto, Vancouver and now, Calgary.  To know, and to memorize each twist, bump, hill and breathless plateau of a bike path at my doorstep, is akin to knowing a secret hummingbird pulse of a big, noisy city.

Jogging and cycling on Humber River bridge in Toronto’s west-end near Etobicoke. Along the Martin Goodman trail that is part of the bigger Waterfront Trail along Lake Ontario. Photo by J.Chong 2011.

I have been content and cosy in each chosen neighbourhood which has been oriented for cyclists and pedestrians in each of these cities across Canada. I know each entire city is still not completely this way, but I have made conscious choices to live in certain neighbourhoods that met my needs.

Waterloo, Ontario: Childhood Cycling Joy in Cycleable, Walkable Neighbourhood

King & William Streets. Downtown Waterloo, Ontario 2012. 1 block away from childhood street, was and still close to shops, school and transit. Photo by I.Yee

But I go back further to my first childhood bike route, a maple tree shaded street in Waterloo, Ontario. It was here, this lovely street with friendly neighbours, that seeded my bicycling dreams.  It was a one-way, one lane street off a busy downtown main street where I learned to bike at 11 years old, with younger siblings.My parents actively chose a home in Waterloo downtown’s core in the 1970′s –a walk 10 minutes  to transit and 15 minutes to a shopping area and school.  We didn’t have any car for a few years.

We took turns learning to bike,  by holding the saddle and handlebar for each other and wobbling up and down the sidewalk on a shared bike with no training wheels.  We could only afford 2 bikes for 6 children.

Under iron hand wrought roof art of the Music Pavilion within the Music Garden. Harbourfront. Overlooking Lake Ontario. Toronto 2012. Music Garden, a park inspired by TV music performance by classical cello player, Yo-Yo Ma of baroque composer, JW Bach’s Suite No.1 in G. Major. Painted piano, 1 of 41+ public pianos placed all over downtown Toronto for impromptu playing by anyone. Streetscaping art work for Pan American Games 2015. Photo by J. Chong

Later, I escaped joyfully  away  from babysitting duties, by twirling my bike  past lovely, nineteenth century homes with rambling, wrap-around porches and stained glass windows on our street.

Home during my lifetime include: apartments, houses and condos. Painting along Bow River bike-pedestrian path. Kensington neighbourhood, Calgary 2013. Photo by J. Chong

Neighbourhood Heritage and Progress Converge: Walking Tour, Iron Horse Bike Trail
Forty years later, I just discovered my childhood street has become a local historic street worthy of a walking tour and a web site.  Now just two blocks away, is a signed bike path, the Iron Horse Trail. But back then, my street was the best street to come home on bike.  In autumn, I rode dreamily under a gold-orange blazing canopy of mature trees and through crackling piles of raked leaves along the street. It was stuff that sparked a bout of poetry writing.

Then the bike was forgotten while I buckled under my university studies, then relocation to London and Toronto.

Bike rack sculpture. Kensington Market area. Toronto, ON 2012. Photo by J. Becker. Area historically known as highly ethnic area –Jewish, Italian, Portuguese and East Asian. Still retains these roots reflected in food shops, cafes but now more shops with bohemian artistic flair and some gentrification in residential streets.

Toronto: Bike Longing and Reigniting My Cycling Passion
Several years later, I resigned myself to a home in a highrise building near a subway station in Scarborough.  Except for the green tree canopy, my balcony view seemed furthest away from childhood sun-dappled shady streets.  By then, I was hankering to bicycle again.  But somehow, I had landed in a semi-suburban fringe of highrises and strip malls, north of Toronto’s Beaches area.

Cycling lower Don River bike path with Bloor St. Viaduct in distance. Bike route is embedded in Toronto’s ravine parks –under the Don Valley Expressway. Part of my daily 30 km. round trip bike commuting route between workplace, downtown Toronto and Scarborough home for over 14 yrs. Photo by J. Becker 2012

Striking Lucky: Living Near Toronto’s Bike Routes  
Later, I was thrilled to discover that I lived only a 5 –minute bike ride away from Toronto’s extensive Don River Valley and its well-connected bike network like a spider web, buried in its ravine parks. Only 8 km. south of home, was Toronto’s Beaches neighbourhood where the Waterfront bike-pedestrian route runs through along the lake.

Bici -Public bike share. Downtown University of Toronto campus area. Huron and Harbord Streets. Photo by J.Chong 2011

These wonderful cycling discoveries were revealed after meeting my new partner. With Jack, I jumped back onto a new bike and learned of another new hidden world of Toronto snaking under the Don Valley Parkway north to Sunnybrook Park and west through the Humber Valley.

Arresting outdoor art sculpture at Goderham Distillery district. East of St. Lawrence Market near Waterfront Trail. Toronto ON 2012. Photo by J.Chong. Heritage area of former distillery buildings now into shops, public square for pedestrians and light cycling.

Over months and years, I learned to join different bike routes between home and work, between home and pleasure. I cycled the Waterfront Bike Trail that edged Lake Ontario and wandered into the Beaches area, before cycling homeward.

After work, I pushed the pedals as far as Etobicoke and back home after work, on some summer evenings. On those evenings, it was a solo 53 km round trip.  I was addicted to my cycling route forays, the bike, and to freedom.

Bike Routes Near Home: Familiar Touchstone After Long Rides
Other times, a bike route near home, was a safe touchstone after cycling home on multi-day trips, from Kingston, Peterborough or just Kleinberg.

False Creek at sunrise. Looking out towards Science World, the geodesic building. Olympic Village on right. Vancouver BC. Photo by J. Chong. Seaside bike path winds along the edge of False Creek from Stanley Park to Granville Market.

My best Toronto bike path memories were suffused with paintbrush splashed autumn trees and glowing red sumac bushes.

I brought along those slow burning memories, when we moved later, to Vancouver.   We lived by the famed Seaside-Seawall bike path that threads through Stanley Park, Olympic Village and to Granville Island.

On our bikes, we inhaled  sea air tang.  As we turned our handlebars, the North Shore mountains rose  ahead.  Like other cities, I learned the best times to cycle, was in the stillness of early morning sunrise before hordes of walkers, roller bladers, dogs and cyclists.

Bike wheels transformed into garden screen for Mount Pleasant community garden. Along Ontario St. bike route. Vancouver 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Daily Cycling Bliss-Out: Vancouver BC
I went further, by cycling Stanley Park in the dark as part of my extended cycling to work route.  I needed to lengthen cycling gloriousness before arriving at work downtown.

We swept down paved, empty roads in the park with our tiny firefly bike lights flickering faintly in the wooded deep darkness. No one else was around when we cycled up to Prospect Point by Lion’s Gate Bridge.  This was my commuting bliss out every day for several years.  Rain mist became a veil to enrich the colours of flowers that were bigger and more brilliant here, than elsewhere in Canada.  Cyclists spun by in rain while café drinkers still hung out, chatting away under the awning.

Cycling along the Seaside path by False Creek. Downtown Vancouver

In the evening, on our highrise balcony, many ant-like cyclists crisscrossed the paths and bridges below.  Swarms filled the paths on a summer evening by False Creek where kayakers and dragon boaters ply the sea waters. It was urban west coast life at

Magnolia and cherry blossom trees along Seaside bike path. North False Creek, David Lam Park. Downtown Vancouver BC. Photo by J. Chong 2013

its best.  I still linger over this view whenever I visit and marvel the magnolia and cherry trees popping their blushing blooms in spring time.

Swept Along or Fighting Chinook Winds: Calgary, Alberta
Now, it’s still cyclists trundling on another path, –along the Bow and Elbow Rivers.  Here the gentle, grassy prairie hills rise in green-gold and yellow dry layers, from the blue-green waters swirling downstream  from the Rockies  into Calgary.  I ride through the

Bow River bike-pedestrian path. Calgary 2012. Photo by J.Chong

teeth of the chinook headwind any season and face-numbing winter cold at -25 degrees C.  The dry air is sunlit and loose.  It’s not the red cardinal that flits across my path but a brilliant blue black magpie bird that hops heavily along the verges.    Tiny rodent prairie dogs play tumble on top of one another, while long legged pale jack rabbits leap away from the path in the heart of the city.  There are less bushes and trees to screen creatures and oncoming cyclists.

Fall. Edgeworthy Park, western end of Bow River bike route. Calgary AB 2012. Photo by J.Chong

I ride with poignant memories, dreams and gladness for these neighbourhoods in the Canadian cities where I have lived,  explored their intimate corners and have celebrated on bike.  When I close my eyes, each familiar bike route calls out to me to return home again and again. And I do.

By “Raindrop”, a permanent outdoor art work . Coal Harbour along Seaside-Seawall bike-pedestrian path. Vancouver, BC 2012

Big wild rabbits sometimes hop about in East Village near Riverwalk bike-pedestrian path. Downtown Calgary. 2012.

Further Reading:
Harbourfront Centre. The Music Garden. More about this unique City of Toronto park. Aerial view of the park reveals gardens and walkways designed in the shape of a musical note. Garden designs are inspired by each music movement: prelude, allemande, courante, etc.

Street Pianos. 41 uniquely painted pianos in Toronto’s public spaces for 41 countries, that will be competing in the Pan-American Games in Toronto.

Waterloo Public Library. Waterloo Historical Walking Tours: Mary-Allen Neighbourhood. Sample houses on childhood street of George St.  It was socio-economically mixed neighbourhood with blend of low income residents (like our family), middle class to upper middle class.

Adult tricycle near St. Lawrence Community Centre. Downtown Toronto. Along The Esplanade, a block from St. Lawrence Market. Photo by J.Chong 2011.

Ice Sculptures: Frozen, Ethereal Aspirations

A few weekends ago, we bused up to Lake Louise in Banff National Park, for their annual ice carving competition and some mountain snowshoeing. It is an international competition that’s been slowly gaining an ice crampon foothold with more intricate,

Song of Many Happy Valleys. USA. Lake Louise, Alberta Jan. 2013. Photo by J. Chong

arresting sculptures this year.

After 14 km. of snowshoeing and straining a groin muscle, we hustled over to the lake edge by Chateau Lake Louise. Late blue-gold sunlight was falling slowly

Swans guarding their twin eggs. USSR. Lake Louise, Alberta Jan. 2013. Photo by J.Becker

over each sparkling ice sculpture.  The ethereal sculptures were from North America, Europe and Philippines.   Thrusting mountains and a glacier draping over the lake,  provided a fabulous backdrop for these sculptures that tended to rise up or dance gracefully in celebration.

Even the sculpture that was titled,  “You’re My Puppet”, was light, yet precariously hovered over visitors. Though the design wasn’t intricate, carving and erecting a slim 7 metre high woman with delicate fingering of strings for her marionette child puppet, probably was the reason for a honourable mention.  Hard to know how the carvers kept the ice-woman from toppling over.

My favourite ice sculpture was from Russia, “Song of the White Cranes”. I loved the gentle, mythological-folklore depiction of a child musician sitting on a horse wading in a frozen pool. The surface of the pool was etched with snow crusted white cranes –a delightful detail that I didn’t even notice until the second time I strolled by.  On the third

Song of the White Cranes. USSR. Lake Louise, Alberta Jan. 2013. Photo by J.Chong. My favourite sculpture with white snow etched cranes on water surface. Whole sculpture is anchored by swimming goldfish below.

time at night, I noticed this whole sculptural tableau  was cleverly held up by carved goldfish swimming underneath the icy surface waters.  No wonder why this artpiece took the Carvers’ choice award –its execution was masterful on several different levels.

The guiding theme for this year’s sculptures, was a song.  So one of the Canadian entries was “Ewe Make Me Feel Like Dancing”:  it inspired a sheep ice skating couple.  A joint Philippine-Canadian sculpture featured a King-Kong like gorilla by a bamboo grove.

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Many people were riveted by the ice sculpture that was a take-off from “Song of Many Happy Valleys”.  It featured a dancing aboriginal woman with her back arched backward.  Several other icy art pieces featured a figure playing a violin—the Netherlands offered a group of skeletons while another Russian piece featured a buxom woman with also a violin.

Later, Jack chatted with one of the carvers. Apparently some carvers run ice-carving businesses on the side while others are amateurs. Not surprisingly, some carvers were wood and log carvers in the summer.

Competition rules. Jan. 2013

These sparkling sculptures were delicate, yet quick mastery of ice.  Ephemeral,

Snowshoeing our way to ice sculpture festival location, near our hotel. Lake Louise, Alberta.

transparent art that becomes a memory and another wintery wish whenever snow and bitter cold sweeps in.

More Reading and Photos:
Chong, J. Lake Louise: Snowshoeing Snow-Glazed Mountains, Ice Castles and Bison Reuben Sandwiches. In Cycle Write Blog. Jan. 20,2012.

Climbing the Skies, the Roughness: Painting and Cycling

Now this is not about cycling mountains, because honest, I haven’t cycled up a high, long steep mountain on a bike yet.

Strange for someone who lived within sight of mountains in Vancouver.  But I’m willing to bet you, I’m like  many Vancouverites who have never biked any mountain either.  Still it is strange, for a cycling enthusiast like myself.  I probably overthink this.

But that’s less important than doing something to awaken my slumbering Muse.

Climbing Sunlight and Roughness. Mixed media- watercolour block ink, acrylic. 2012. By J. Chong. Needs to be seen on screen, at some distance away.

So after nearly 3 years, I pulled out a hodge-podge pile of block prints, a small stretched canvass and poured a trickle of acrylic matte glue into a yogurt container.  After a few hours of twisting, tearing and matching complementary tissue prints, a pseudo-painting of sorts emerged.  The first painting after no art touch, was like practicing piano – tentative tinkering , slightly shapeless and pallid.

Rainbow in Rocky Mountains. View from hiking trail up Tunnel Mountain. Banff National Park, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Next day, another empty canvass was prepared with yellow swishes of acrylic paint wash. I wanted some bright highlights to glow. I also wondered if a blue translucent tissue print was laid over yellow wash, would it merge into green?

Sunset, looking out from summit of Mauna Kea, a dead volcano with snow at the top. Big Hawaii Island 2002. Photo by J. Becker

If you look hard enough, yes there is some tiny transformation from blue to green, but silver ink in some overlapping prints has muted the green.  I was hoping for a stronger suggestion of vegetation. Instead there are sun-glow patches on dry rock that might have been touched by water a long time ago.

Abstract patterns in Nature: frozen winter inlet waters. Nunavut, Canadian Arctic 2003. Photo by J. Chong

While this painting needs a defter touch on trimming print edges, it is the colour drama juxtaposed against shadows of more  canyons and mountains afar, that I hope to tease the viewer. 

It is like a bike or hiking journey in some mountainous areas:  Every few metres along the way, there are ever-changing views of mountains, their siblings and shadows.  Each mountain comes into prominence one by one,  sometimes together, at different stages, under different sunlit intensities, different times of the day and different seasons of the year.

This sunlit glory and fog-snow swathed stage of mountains, rotates every day for our contemplation  –still, yet never the same.

How do you stoke your artistic Muse? Where do you draw your inspiration?

Easily Drunk on Cycle-Touring in Wine Regions

Blasted Church Winery.Okanagan Valley. Near Oliver, BC. 2005. Tasting room is housed in an old church that was carefully dynamited in the 1920′s in order to relocate it at that time. Photo by J. Chong

It’s annoying to have my  health problem whenever we go cycle-touring in the wine regions of Canada, U.S. and Europe: I get easily drunk on alcohol.
 
You could say I am afflicted by a common problem that isn’t just confined to some Asians (although there is that stereotyping). My ears become quite red: fast like a supremely over-exerted cyclist after  less than 6-8 sips of wine.
 
Either Red Ears or Tone Down Wine Sips
By drinking more wine, just to “harden” my sensitivities to the fermented grape, is not a solution. Not when already, I’m into my fifth decade in life.  I still want a liver and control over calorie intake. Drinking wine often means drinking in more calories too.

My seafood salad lunch. Muse Winery Bistro, Saanich. Vancouver Island, BC 2011. Photo by J. Chong. Local fresh seafood is common on an island winery bistro menu. Food sometimes is just as good as the wine from their barrels.

Nevertheless, we have sallied forth by bike into the wine regions of  Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Ontario; Okanagan Valley in interior British Columbia and on Vancouver Island.  We have yet to taste the recent wines from eastern Ontario in Prince Edward County or south on Pelee Island. These areas developed their vineyards after we moved to British Columbia.

Spring time at Saltspring Winery. Saltspring Island, BC 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Wine Regions- A Heady Bouquet of Memories
We have touched down on some great routes and wineries with  creative tasting rooms, good wines, restaurants and ambience that sometimes tie together the local experience into a lovely bouquet of memories.

At a winery in Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island 2003.

 My jumpstart into wineries, was over 16 years ago with our 120 km. cycling day trip from Toronto to Niagara-on-the-Lake wine region.  Since then, we’ve done this trip several times different ways which included  a ferry across Lake Ontario that ran only a scant 2 summers.  We have also biked around the lake, as a hot humid bike trip in summer from downtown Toronto. Now, wine-thirsty cyclists can choose to roll on their bikes onto the popular  summer weekend Bike Train service passengers from Toronto.

The 50 km. 1-way bike route from Port Dalhousie to Fort Erie, past the roaring Niagara Falls and Butterfly Gardens, is easy, if not also crazy-busy during peak tourist season.  A more pleasant visit is early fall, with the blaze of autumn-kissed trees along the bike path. 

Local art work may be featured at various tasting rooms or outdoors at the site. Nk’Mip Cellars, an aboriginal winery run by the Osoyoos Indian Band. Near Oliver, B.C.2005. Photo by J. Chong. Not typically European in artistry but wine-making is embedded in European techniques.

 During various different trips across Canada, we’ve stopped to pull out our bikes and puff away on short steep hills in the Okanagan Valley, Canada’s near desert-like wine region in British Columbia.

Favourite Wineries Blend Spirits, Scenery, Food and Artistry
One of my favourite wineries for wine, great food and valley views, is Quail’s Gate in West Kelowna which overlooks gentle grapevine slopes dipping down to Okanagan Lake.   The winery’s location shows off the area’s sparkling waters, bright clear skies, undulating hills and winding roads.
 

View overlooking vineyards, mountains to Okanagan Lake, from Quail’s Gate Wines’ restaurant patio. West Kelowna, BC 2008. Photo by J. Chong

At Summerhill Wines, past its signature upended wine bottle sculpture, is a restaurant that offers relaxation for a lovely meal and shade from the sunny dry heat  –that is, if you can avoid the crowds during peak seasons. They once produced a white wine packaged in a blue glass violin shaped bottle which I’ve kept, after savouring its contents.
 
Though we have not yet travelled by bike to the following two Okanagan Valley wineries mentioned below, I can’t resist just mentioning them because of their unusual ambiance and effective marketing.

Antique wooden grape press by a French vineyard. Provence, France 2012. Photo by J. Becker

Blasted Church Wines are arresting just for its wine labels and its story of a carefully dynamited church in 1929 that was moved from Okanagan Falls to its present location that now houses the tasting room.

For innovative surroundings and something unEuropean, but deeply embedded in British Columbian identity, is Nk’Mip Wine Cellars which features aboriginal iconography and artwork in its restaurant, tasting room and grounds. The winery has been developed by savvy local aboriginal entrepreneurs from the Osoyoos Indian Band.

Mermaid in rubber boots is logo for Saltspring Island Wines. Saltspring Island, BC 2005. Photo by J. Chong. Winery as well as Cherrypoint Wines each produces blackberry wine.

Can’t Resist Local Seafood  and Blackberry Wine
What distinguishes British Columbia in vineyard visits and tastings, are also  local salmon and other fresh large local seafood featured on winery restaurant menus at reasonable prices for high quality.

Whenever I visit Vancouver Island wineries, like Cherry Point Wines, I savour the seafood entrees just as much as the accompanying wine from their barrels nearby.  Large scallops, spotted shrimp (unique to Pacific Northwest coast), various clam varieties and mussels, are often drawn from the Pacific waters.  This level of freshness and quality most definitely, is not featured much in Germany at winery restaurants.

Cycle-touring by Rhine River along the “Wine Route” in his birthplace area with vineyards, picturesque old towns and castle ruins. Black Forest Region, southern Germany, 2008.

Ideal frost-snow conditions in British Columbia and Niagara-on-the-Lake wine regions, also allow pressing of ice wine more easily than Spain, Italy or France.

For locals or visitors,  I cannot stop reminding people that Vancouver Island, is home of port-like blackberry wine varietals. Blackberry bushes bust out all over the land, if left unpruned, since they thrive in Pacific Northwest coastal balmy weather and rain –much to the curse of dedicated gardeners.

Wandering and Wine-Tasting Overseas
Further abroad, we have cycle-ventured  into the Napa-Sonoma wine region in California (though more him, than me), bike-touched the wine regions in Washington and Oregon. 

Since Jack’s family roots are based in the Black Forest region in the famed wine region by the Rhine River in southern Germany, we have cycled there for wine, food, and 

Chatting with farming couple at farmers’ market who grew cherries plus make and sell their own kirschausseur, “cherry wine”. Freiburg, Germany 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Wines were sold 4-5 euros per bottle. It is common that some German farmers in the wine-growing regions will make small batches of their own wine for sale. Not far from this market, was a retail store, showcasing and selling local, lesser known wines in this region.

picturesque villages while on our way to visit relatives.  His extended family still has a vineyard and hotel inn with restaurant since the 1700’s.  It is a region that other Europeans flock, whose home country lack wineries due to inadequate climatic conditions for grape-growing –ie. from Scandanavia, United Kingdom, etc.

Cycling by vineyards and winery in Aix-le-Provence, France 2012. Photo by J. Becker

I haven’t yet cycled France enough, to visit its wine regions.  However, last spring Jack rolled through the Burgundy wine region but was unable to stock up on wine due to his heavy packed bike panniers. He really wondered if he would be able to meet his 80-100 km. daily cycling goals if he stopped for a swig of red wine glory. So, he blissfully spun unaware through some French winery areas that produced famed red wines that cost over $120.00 per bottle in North America.

Vineyards surround centuries old town, Weingarten, Germany 2010. Area near where Jack was born and family members are still there. Photo by J. Chong. Approximately 15 km. southwest of the French border. Weingarten translates from German as “Wein” for wine and “agarten” for garden.

So touring wine regions by bike offers many gorgeous vistas, an outdoor Nature experience married with cultural refinement –even if you can’t pack in much wine in your tummy or in your bike panniers, from your favourite winery stops.

Cycling through picturesque old French towns in Champagne, France 2009. Photo by J. Becker. The region that certifies only certain vineyards for producing the real champagne.

 Reading to Entice You:
Tourism British Columbia. Includes information on its wine regions, map and winery links.

Chong, J. Cycling for Spargel, Kirsch and Blue Painted Bikes in Black Forest Region, Germany.  In Cycle Write Blog. Jun. 3, 2010.

Chong, J. Freiburg, Germany: Cycling Among Medieval and Renaissance Restoration. In Cycle Write Blog. Jul. 10, 2010.

Chong, J. An Idyllic Summer Escape to Vancouver Island for Maidei. In Cycle Write Blog. Jul. 3, 2011. 

Homemade focaccia-pizza with a Okanagan Valley merlot from Stag’s Hollow winery in B.C. Photo by J. Chong

Summerhill Wines’ patio wine bottle sculpture. Overlooking Okanagan Lake, Kelowna B.C. Photo by J. Chong

St. George Rainway: Painting a Bygone Salmon Stream

Part of the “St. George Rainway”, a road mural painting dedicated to a bygone salmon stream on St. George Street between 7th and 8th Ave East. Vancouver, BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong. Foreground is a laneway.

On a misty grey summer morning, we hotfooted by bike to see a brand-new road painting that memorializes a bygone salmon stream that ran through the Mount Pleasant Vancouver neighbourhood. That’s right –a somewhat bumpy road surface was graced overnight with a blue-green swirly art stream of salmon, frogs, trees and sea life in a quiet residential area. The road community art work was the St. George Rainway.

We arrived there at the right time –colours were still pure, bright and unblemished from the previous evening’s painting party.  Road traffic was quiet since rush hour peak activity if such a street experienced it, had died down.

Well, it’s doubtful that this artwork was conceived so quickly. There was public consultation with the community, some artists created and presented the design, the False Creek Watershed Society helped promote the public painting party evening

St.George Rainway painting begins at a traffic calming circle filled with a community garden. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong.

weeks in advance, City placed some temporary traffic barriers and more volunteers were secured to paint and complete the 50 metre long painting within 5 hours on June 28, 2012.

It is remarkable what can be achieved by throwing down a well-designed painting on public road space if there is artistic vision, orchestrated effort of enthusiastic volunteers and some leadership.

St. George Street runs alongside a public school that has its fence already decorated with children’s salmon placard art – a common iconic sight at various Vancouver

St. George Rainway winds its artful way the full length of a street block. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong. Painted with community volunteers under artistic direction.

elementary public schools. The painted stream or “rainway” starts from a garden festooned traffic calming circle to nearly the end of the first block.

Painting imagery depicts seven stages of salmon, frogs, flora and fauna with multiple word translations of “water”.

While we were there, a few cyclists cruised along and various drivers drove hesitantly down the rainway. While it might have been the sight of us, 2 cyclists wandering around with their cameras , it was obvious some drivers were seeing the road painting for the first time also. Some cars inched slowly down the side of the road, not down the centre of the

“Shui” means water in Chinese. St. George Rainway painting. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

road. Either a driver wanted to see more of the painting or allow us to continue photo-shooting. We weren’t sure. But at least, the fanciful stream painting, slowed down the drivers for a short residential street.

Rainway Painting Captures a Fleeting Image, Memory
The St. George Rainway is a touchstone that nudges pedestrians, cyclists and drivers to look, ponder, ask questions (What is this painting all about?) and contemplate the winding story of a lost stream and sea life prior to urbanization. We should welcome more inspiring permanent motifs that pull us outside and remind us what has been lost and what needs to be cherished for the future.

Salmon and other sea life swirl across St. George Street. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

This painting too, shall fade in brilliance after the beating of rain, traffic, sunlight and snow. Catch and enjoy its ephemeral dream memory while you can.

Further Reading
Mount Pleasant Community Association. Mount Pleasant Watershed Society Blog.

Chong, Jean. Mosaic Park: A Creative Stream of Community Consciousness and Dreams. In Cycle Write Blog, Aug. 24, 2010.  For something a bit different: another public outdoor art installation with over 200 different mosaic designs that depicts a community’s wish for a water stream in their neighbourhood park.

2010 Olympic Birthmarks in Neighbourhoods: Vancouver, BC

“Canoe”, a pedestrian bridge in Olympic Village. Vancouver BC 2012. Heading towards Creekside Community Centre on far right. Photo by J.Chong

For locals,  the 2010 Winter Olympics legacy for some Vancouver buildings and artwork becomes paradoxically like a familiar face that we may longer notice its unique birthmarks over time.

I haven’t spent any time researching, analyzing  nor comparing long lasting transformation of buildings, art and infrastructure in Vancouver and other Olympic cities worldwide.  So just take my observations, as a casual jumble of blasé, amazed and sometimes, surprised thoughts as I bike around.

Olympic Athletes’ Village
It is still a wonderful area to cycle or walk around through on its paths, seating areas,

Part of a whimsical bicycle-powered world image in an art print. Front lobby at Creekside Community Centre. Olympic Village, Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

“Canoe”, a pedestrian steel bridge, giant sparrow sculptures and its mini decorative amphitheatre that leads down into False Creek. The Village is a mix of multi-family, low

Cycling paths in Olympic Village are well-travelled most days at all hours. Background is city skyline and North shore mountains. Vancouver, BC 2012. Photo by J.Chong

and mid-rise housing designs. The new Terra Bread bakery café in the Village, is just rocking popular most of the time. When you are hanging out here with your coffee, you certainly see cyclists spinning by every few minutes from downtown or presumably from Granville Market.  No doubt, this bakery location is benefitting immensely from drop-in cyclists and pedestrians, since the Village is designed to severely limit car traffic.

In the Village, is the new Creekside Community Centre, which offers views of mountains, city skyline and False Creek from its ceiling to floor glassed rooms and atrium. During the Olympics, the Centre was one of the nerve centres for the world media and security command centre for the athletes.

Today,  inside there are banners from other previous Winter Olympics worldwide. Some of the

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 banner design style is iconic for that Olympic era —such as the 1920-1940’s.   An instant history teaching moment and reminder of Vancouver’s contemporary entry into the panthenon of Olympic host cities.

Permanent sidewalk mosaic with fireworks over Burrard Bridge, Vancouver BC 2010. Artist: Bruce Walther. Photo by J. Chong. Part of Downtown Vancouver Business Association’s Improvement Program. Funded by 2010 Cultural 2010 Olympiad which created and showcased art during the Winter Olympics.

Hillcrest Community Centre
Later we dropped by the new Hillcrest Community Centre which includes a library branch. Hillcrest was the former Olympic curling venue.  Something must have been wrong with the ventilation system in the women’s washroom on the day I was there.  It wasn’t working and very hot on an early cool spring day.  Hopefully it was only a a temporary breakdown.

Dunsmuir Separated Bike Lane
No, I am not confusing Winter Olympic lore with Vancouver cycling infrastructure expansion.

Urban life mosaics adorn a concrete city planter by the Dunsmuir separated bike lanes. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J.Chong

This lane was originally created with concrete barriers, to encourage more cycling traffic after the Olympics.  During the Olympics  the city had an aggressive goal of reducing incoming car traffic by 30% during the Olympics.  There were cyclists, more pedestrians and enthusiastic use of transit but this bike lane was not used during the Games.  Afterwards, the city made the barriers permanent and thrusted the lane further into downtown core with planters and bike rack corrals as barriers enroute to protect cyclists from cars.

Canada Line- Art at the End of Line
So much has been written in the transit world about the Canada Line that was built to move hundreds of thousands of people daily during the Olympics.

Aboriginal permanent art sculpture by local artist, Susan Pointe greets visitors at Canada Line light rail station. Vancouver International Airport, 2010. Photo by J. Chong

After the Olympics, daily use of the Canada Line, has exceeded TransLink’s original estimates.  People travelling to and from the airport, love it for its convenience. Translink met its original projected 3-year Canada line use of up to 100,000 Canada Line users daily within first 3 months after the Olympics.

What I love, as result of Olympic art legacies, is the permanent public art work in the new wing at the Vancouver International Airport attached to the Canada Line station. Contemporary aboriginal pieces that add to already the airport’s stunning collection to greet global visitors.

Olympic Logos Plastered Trucks, Ferry: Official Suppliers
Vancouverites travelling to and from Vancouver Island, most likely may have seen at least one B.C. Ferry with Olympic logo markings.

A few months ago, I also saw another vehicle sporting the Olympic logo:  a truck transporting beds and mattresses.  Sleep Country was the official supplier for beds ..probably for the Olympic athlete’s village.

Company truck still proudly displays its 2010 Olympic supplier logo. They were official suppliers of “Sleep” or mattresses for the Athlete’s Village areas. Vancouver, BC 2012. Photo by J.Chong

I’m not sure if this logo shout-out will become worn-out. But the vendors probably  had to work hard to provide their services and products in marathon flat-out delivery.

Going Beyond Sports: Permanent Footprint for A Dynamic Urbanscape

Sparrows, at Olympic Village flank a public square. To immediate right of sculpture is now a busy bakery cafe. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

The 2010 Olympics confirmed for locals and to the urban planning community, how possible it was transform a city to live more often by foot, with more transit use and cycling. With additional larger scale public art, mid-rise multiple unit housing, more parkland and some attractive streetscaping, all these amenities can have long lasting use and value for communities.

Through my casual, slightly jaundiced eyes, the Olympics like all others, was a temporary

Dragonboat teams by dock at bottom of Creekside Community Centre. Kayaking, long-boating and dragonboating are popular year-round during the day, in False Creek which runs by Olympic Village in downtown Vancouver. 2010. Photo by J. Chong

money-generator for the local economy. However, there is already a cornucopia of art, architecture and changed view of Vancouver’s possibilities as a city that became more than just a place to greet the world before escaping to Whistler, Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands or the U.S.

What you see is a permanent imprint embedded into Vancouver’s urban landscape now and for a long time for all of us to enjoy.

How to Celebrate Bike-Pedestrian Bridges: Let Me Count Thy Ways

A shiny new bridge,  is a local cause célèbre in many ways, for expected and totally unexpected reasons. Sometimes it’s just a lovely architectural backdrop to frame not only cyclists and strollers, but also graduation parties, post-wedding photos, seminal reunions of family and friends.

Gaggle of high school grads in party wear have fun taking photos before jumping back into the rented limousines. Peace Bridge, Calgary, AB May 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Peace Bridge, Calgary: Frames Grad, Wedding and Family Celebrations
We were cycling homeward on the new helical Peace Bridge in Calgary by Spanish architect, Santiago Calvatore.  Ahead at the south bridge entrance, was a gaggle of excited student graduates bedecked in their long prom gowns and suits  swapping  group poses for photos. The student party-goers caused a minor bubble of congestion among  bemused cyclists, walkers and dogs along the bridge.

Traffic jam for bemused cyclists, pedestrians and their dogs. Peace Bridge, Calgary AB. May 2012. Photo by J.Chong

Why would chiffon swathed women and their nattily suited guys even want photos on this red bridge?  My guess was either typical garden shots were boring:   well just spoke too much of “weddings” or it was still too early this spring for a more glorious bloom of Nature.

After these photos were taken, for next few weeks, we have seen several different long-gowned and two- piece suited convoys of fresh faced graduates preening and prancing happily before cameras on the Peace Bridge.  The bridge literally has become a Calgarian symbol for one of life’s rite of passage.

Peace Bridge, Calgary AB 2012. Designed by Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava. Photo by J.Chong

Over the years, I’ve cycled to several opening day festivities for just completed bike-pedestrian bridges.  After months and months of public anticipation, and local news charting the barometer of public debate over a bridge’s price tag, it can be special moment when it’s time to walk, bike across the bridge.

On Golden Ears Bridge. Langley, BC. Information plaque mentions golden eagle that is indigenous to area. Ahead gold light poles against the rise of mountains which there is the Golden Ears Provincial Park. Metal fence has salmon shapes inserted in between vertical rails slats. Photo by J.Chong 2010

At the Peace Bridge celebration this year, they even arranged a helicopter to fly over the bridge several times from a nearby, barely-used helipad.  A Chinese lion dance wove along while stilt-walkers perched precariously and entertained from their lofty height to  crowds below.

Golden Ears Bridge, Metro Vancouver:   Highlighting Local Nature, Culture  
In 2009, the Golden Ears Bridge opening in the suburbs of Metro Vancouver, had special meaning for me. I was the Document Control Manager during the design and construction project phases. More about that work experience later in a different blog post.

Member of Sto:lo First Nations who lives near Fraser River where Golden Bridge spans. On opening day for aboriginal blessing and ceremony. Langley, BC 2009. I learned from him about a few sturgeon fish, now an endangered species exist in the waters. Fraser River can have annually up to a million salmon fish swim in from Pacific Ocean.

Approximately up to 20,000 people from all over Metro Vancouver, attended the bridge opening celebrations on a hot June day.  The Golden Ears Bridge is a 1 km. four lane road bridge  topped with iconic gold metal eagle sculptures,  gold coloured light poles and salmon shaped metal fences that line the bridge contours. Construction of this bridge over the Fraser River, also included building 5 highway approaches from the municipalities of Surrey, Langley, Pitt Meadows and Maple Ridge.  Along both sides of the bridge, there are protected bike and pedestrian lanes. Bridge opening festivities included an ignaural 5 km. run of joggers and a bridge blessing by the local Sto-Lo aboriginal group, who also showcased their traditional longboat.

Cycling on Golden Ears Bridge 2010. A 100 km round trip between home in downtown Vancouver and bridge in the suburbs. Photo by HJEH Becker

On that day, Jack and I cycled a 100 km. round trip between home in downtown Vancouver and this bridge. I then, realized my own personal sacrifice for my job:  a daily lengthy work commute for nearly three years on the job.  Each day, my commute blended cycling, light rapid train, then parking my bike in a locker, stepping onto a bus and finally, walking 15 minutes to the construction site.  I wrote about this convoluted bike to work trip in an earlier blog post. I was relieved to have moved beyond this infrastructure project onto other things in life.  But when I saw the completed bridge, I nursed a smidgen of pride to have been on the project team that was responsible for this  local landmark.

Since then, we’ve enjoyed this day round trip several times to the bridge, with a stop at our favourite Italian bakery café and gelatari in Port Moody.

“Stream of Dreams”, showcases local children’s art of salmon fish. Park grass seems to simulate underwater seaweed. Photo by J. Chong. Background is Sperling bike-pedestrian overpass bridge connecting Sperling Skytrain station in Burnaby BC, to the Central Valley Greenway.

Central Valley Greenway & Sperling Station Bridge: Marking Connections Among Communities
For the celebration day on the opening of the Central Valley Greenway, a long awaited 30-km. bikeway and greenway, Jack and I were on local tv news.  Global tv station filmed a small group of  us cycling over the new white Sperling Station bike-pedestrian bridge that connects between  the TransLink Skytrain station and the Central Valley Greenway  in Burnaby.

This whole bike route is particularily known for its gentler grades and was Metro Vancouver’s first longest, east-west route for cyclists and walkers by joining the municipalities of New Westminister, Burnaby and Vancouver. It is a boon for bike commuters who want a less stressful bike route away from car traffic.

Opening day celebrations for 30 km. bike-pedestrian Central Valley Greenway by new bike-pedestrian bridge at Skytrain Sperling transit station. Burnaby, BC 2009. Photo by J. Chong

A whimsical simple feature along the way, are children’s handmade salmon art that grace the fence by Sperling station underneath the bridge in the park.  You will see this type of children’s local artwork when cycling by some of the elementary schools in Metro Vancouver  –wonderful, colourful  art that is participatory, permanent and iconic that reflects salmon that swim into some local rivers from the Pacific Ocean.

I’ve been fortunate to witness and join the crowds in celebrating new bridge links several times since I’ve returned to cycling.  Often the event is more than just welcoming a new, often better way to travel by bike, walking or  jogging. Each bridge becomes a memorable marker, an icon in the local landscape, history and lore that will spawn more stories into the future.

Cycling towards Sperling Station bike-pedestrian bridge.Burnaby BC 2009. Photo by HJEH Becker. North Vancouver mountains in background.

Further Reading:
Chong, Jean.  Biking to Work in More Challenging or Isolated Work Areas.  In Third Wave Cycling Blog. May 22, 2010.

Chong, Jean.  Golden Ears Bridge: A Nod to Nature and Aboriginal Heritage.  In Inside Vancouver Blog.  May 26, 2011.  More details on local history and culture of the Fraser River where the bridge is located.

Nurturing Life: In Praise of Gardeners, Keepers of the Earth

Quirky ceramic sign for garden says it all. 2012 Photo by HJEH Becker. Note: Butterfly was a battery operated garden bling.

 As a non-gardener, I couldn’t help giggling at a tiny stand of flower pots for sale when we stopped by the University of British Columbia’s Botanical Garden Shop, during a bike ride last month. One of the pots had a garden ceramic sign emblazoned:  Grow, damn it!  Do expert gardeners lose their patience too?
 
Respect for Gardeners’ Sweat Equity
I admire gardeners who risk hours of sweat equity to seed  with great hopes of bountiful gardens with bright flowers, greenery or edible veggies and fruits.  Previously, I have written several blog posts on community gardens.  It’s a fantastic use of local vacant land.

Magnolia tree blossom spotted along a bike ride. Pacific Spirit Regional Park. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

I couldn’t garden happily:  I need do-it-yourself hobbies that produce long lasting results –a tailored garment or a little oil painting.  Even a calligraphic poster.  Yes, even a blog.

Recycled bike serves as garden seat in Cypress St. community garden. By Arbutus bike-pedestrian rail path. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

My gardening efforts were often absent-minded failures. My only plant, a sturdy basil died last month simply because I forgot to water it generously before going on vacation.

Gardening: No Longer For Just the Elderly, It’s Chic Dirt Digging
If it weren’t for the local food movement, or cycling while surrounded by Mother Nature, I would have blasted by cleverly crafted gardens and the disheveled wilderness.

Probably like many people, I used to associate gardening with doddering,  elderly people pruning, watering or talking to their plants while they had their cup of tea and scones.

Now, gardening or digging your hands in dirt and compost, is becoming chic –a refreshing attitude for gardeners and farmers.  After all, what person wouldn’t want fresh fruits, veggies and grains?

Wild alpine meadow flowers on mountain hike. Mount Revelstoke National Park, BC 2002. Photo by HJEH Becker

 Appreciating Plant Life from Ontario to British Columbia
My appreciation of gardens, particularily botanical and artistic in design,  was a slow osmosis of feeding my need for visual play of colours, shapes and textures in well-tended gardens during some of our cycling trips and vacation spots.  As a kid, I only casually noticed the tulips, crocuses, hyacinths,  snowdrops and forget-me-not flowers, growing around the house.  After all, most of these plants were already planted before my non-gardening parents bought the house.

Nature’s own garden among old growth Douglas fir trees and ferns. Lighthouse Park, West Vancouver BC 2005. Photo by J. Chong. A temperate rainforest in the city.

 Spring time to me in southern Ontario, was while cycling,  marked by these annual flowers as well as the purple  bunches and smell of lilacs and yellow brilliance of forsythia bushes.  Once we cycled a 120 km. trip between Toronto and Hamilton’s Royal Botanical Gardens, where there was a large demonstration area of a wide variety of lilacs.

Rich Year-Round Plant Diversity on West Coast
Then when I  moved out to Vancouver, I became far more aware of plant species unique to the northwest Pacific coast, as well as up in the alpine mountain areas and in  year round moist green temperate rainforests.  Here was an area in Canada, where there was greater diversity of thriving floral species, bigger and brighter flower heads, thicker leaf  undergrowth, plus the bonus of sea life thriving by the shoreline and in the Pacific tidal pools. It really is a Canadian gardener’s paradise.

Wonderous succulent tropical flower with buds. Botanical garden, Big Hawai’i Island 2002. Photo by HJEH Becker

In Hawaii, I was blown over by astonishing brilliance and fecundity of tropical flowers both cultivated and wild – wild ginger, birds-of-paradise and orchids, just to name a few.  I returned to Vancouver’s florist shops and noticed the same cut, sometimes potted flowers, but at a price.

Painting by Cypress Community Gardens entrance. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J.Chong

 Cycling Awakens Respect for Mother Nature
As a long time cyclist, one must bow to the power and occasional weather fickleness of Mother Nature.  I am not a mountain biker, spin jumping among forests and hills. But inevitably, there is a noticeable difference between cycling surrounded  by only cars and buildings versus on paths with nearby  forest, mountains, fields and bush in sight.  Even cultivated garden plots here and there along the way, count for visual relief.

The hardest part during our casual, Nature fandom bike rides, is stopping too often to snap photos of a flowering tree or a cunning bunch of bleeding heart flowers. Spring comes every year for a short spell. So, we revel in  budding gardens, quirky art work and wake-up blossoms of bushes and trees.

*This  post is in faithful memory of a sister who passed away in fall 2010.

Azaela flowering bush. Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

More Interesting Reading and Photos:
Chong, Jean. City Hall’s Community Gardens and Citizen Outdoor Mandala Art. In Inside Vancouver Blog, Jun. 11, 2011.

Chong, Jean. People’s Oases: Community Gardens. In Cycle Write Blog, Apr. 9, 2010.

Cherry Blossom Ballet in Vancouver: Nature and New Mural Art

I had been wanting to highlight this new outdoor public mural that featured cherry blossoms against the backdrop of West Coast Japanese-Canadian and aboriginal history.

St. James Community Services Society mural reflects Japanese-Canadian and aboriginal history, culture along with west coast sea life. By Joey Mallet & Rita Buchwitz 2011. Commissioned for Vancouver’s 125th anniversary. Photo by J. Chong.

The St. James Community Service Society mural was commissioned in 2011 by the City of Vancouver, as part of their new public art works in celebration of the city’s 125th anniversary. The mural is also a dedication to the work of the Society for 50 years in the downtown Eastside for providing emergency shelter services, hospice care, support to seniors and those with mental illness.

Cherry blossoms. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

This new mural is located at the corner of Powell and Gore Streets, in the area that was Japantown, adjacent to Chinatown. The mural includes a watery image of herring, cedar tree fronds, other sea life and a totem pole.

In this neighbourhood, there are several outdoor art installations within 1 block in all directions, that are touchstones to also aboriginal culture and Chinese- Canadian history.

Former Japanese-Canadian internment camp during WW II in mountainous interior region of British Columbia. New Denver, BC 2005. Photo by HJEH Becker

Fragile Blossoms Frame Grey Shadows in Japanese-Canadian History
Delicate arching branches of pale pink blossoms contrast against the grey flotilla of Japanese-Canadian fishing boats in the mural. During the latter part of the 19th century and up to World War II, the Japanese immigrants were formative in sustaining the fishing and canning industries along the southern coast of British Columbia. However, the dark spot in history was the confiscation of their fishing boats and their possessions by the Canadian government in 1939 and thereafter, with the Japanese Allied bombing of Pearl Harbour in Hawaii.

All Japanese-Canadians during World War II, were deemed suspect by the Canadian government as a threat to Canada, even though many of these Canadians had never been to Japan or their family were already settled in Canada for several generations. There was 

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 corralling of Japanese-Canadians and relocation of them by train, into camps located in the mountain interior areas of British Columbia. It was a clear racist target against a group of Canadians who were innocent and not responsible for Pearl Harbour attack. Parallel action was also taken by the U.S. against the Japanese-Americans.

The businesses in Japantown never fully recovered after WWII. Many of the families lost their possessions, businesses and were nominally compensated by the Canadian government 50 years later in the 1980’s,  for a token amount of money.

Cherry blossoms. Stanley Park, Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

The mural is also an ethereal bow to the profusion of cherry trees bursting forth every spring, all over Vancouver. Previously I had written a blog post on this wonderful pink herald of spring which began as a gift of cherry trees from the Japanese government.

Cherry Trees Inspire Landscape Design for New Developments
Nowadays, it’s refreshing to see that both the City of Vancouver and some private developers have incorporated new cherry tree plantings into the landscaping and streetscape designs. You can see young trees blooming around the perimeter of a playing field in David Lam Park, by new condominium developments while bicycling from Stanley Park and along streets in Kitsalano and Shaugnessey neighbourhoods, where there are more mature cherry trees.

Queen Elizabeth Park in spring time. Vancouver BC 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Pink Blossoms Dance Like Ballet Tutus
Unlike the famed cherry blossoms in Washington DC, or even in Japan, on the northwest British Columbia coast,  sometimes delicate cherry trees are thriving beside soaring old growth trees that have stood for several hundred years. Boughs of tissue-thin, cherry blossom branches dance ballet-like in the wind, against rough, mossy wide girth of Douglas firs.

The cherry blossom sprays are like a profusion of many pink ballet tutus shifting, jumping and floating in the spring breeze. It is a happy dance of memory and hope for us when we face the rain showers and sun in the months ahead.

More Interesting Reading (and Photos)
Chong, Jean. Cycling Under Cherry Pink Flowering Bowers. In Cycle Write Blog, Apr. 18, 2010.

Asia in My Dreams: Romanticizing the East

After half a century, I still haven’t been to Asia yet.  Being Canadian-born and resident in Canada all my life ( Huron-Iroquois native Indian for “Kanata“, meaning village), I have only impressions and tenuous connections to ancestral land of China.

Statuary on top of temple. Hsinchu City, Tawain 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. An Asian interpretation of baroque-like detail.

As Asia hurtles along in the 21st century to remake itself, I have had to rejiggle my perceptions about this diverse area and simultaneously, my hopes of ever visiting there.  By now, I’m wondering if I will ever be motivated to visit at all. Let me explain.

Mother and I at home in southern Ontario, Canada. Beginnings of my reality, dreams and identity.

 Dreams Start in German-Mennonite Ontario County Area
While growing up in a small southern Ontario city, I had visions of a land with ancient pagodas dwarfed by sheer rocky mountain spires,  blue Mao-suited residents shuffling in black cloth Chinese slippers who were eating food that was more deeply layered and diverse in taste, compared to the fare served up in diner woks across North America.

These images were reinforced by my parents’ collection of older Chinese pictorial magazines that I later plundered photos to illustrate my school projects and ace some high marks. (I think the marks were for the amount of  information I enthusiastically shared in the project.)

Cycling in an enclosed village area, Changzhi, China 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker.

Also my half-baked impressions, were fed by letters with Mao and Communist peasant inspired stamps on letters from relatives in mainland China, during the 1970’s.

Dispatches from Other Canadian-born Chinese
Later, in the 1980’s when other Canadian-born Chinese friends went overseas to live and travel, there were stories of being tracked occasionally by Chinese authorities, some travel restrictions, difficulties of learning Mandarin as adults while savouring both, delicious and lousy cheap food, sights of  rural poverty, crowded cities, some magnificent scenery and architecture.

It was mostly foreign to me.  But still, wonderful to hear tales both great and not so great.

In a mountain park. Seoul, South Korea. 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Ideal, tranquil image of Asia.

Finally a sister and I had vaguely entertained the idea of a trip to China. But that same year later,  the 1989 Tianamen Square massacre of several hundred student protestors in Beijing and terror,  forced us early to switch our sights to Europe.  We spent three weeks bopping around in 10 European countries.

She however did embark a few years later, on a memorable trip with her husband for several weeks in China and Thailand.

Expanding Asian Dreams-  Moving to Toronto
Meanwhile my childhood romantic thoughts were crystallizing with greater clarity when I moved to Toronto to find work after university. Here was one of Canada’ highest proportion of Asian-Canadians where suddenly, I wasn’t noticed as much by racial ethnicity.

Spicy Korean seafood noodle soup with condiments 2012. Calgary, AB. Began exploring other Asian cuisines, outside of Chinese Cantonese food starting in my mid 20′s.

For the first time in my mid-20’s, I started to taste the fiery kimchee soaked condiments and egg smothered bim bap in Korean restaurants, as well as barbecued eel,  sushi and sashimi from Japanese restaurants  and curries from Malayasian eateries.  Yup, that was how “narrow” my experience of  just Asian cuisine.  What do you expect from a kid who  grew up in a German-Mennonite city and then, spent a few years buried in her studies in the conservative, Caucasian dominant city of London, Ontario?

My Asian dreams got wider geographically  –through food as a touchstone.  Thai food stoked the golden visions of the Royal Palace in Bangkok and skinny market boats floating down canals, loaded with fresh produce.

Cambodia 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis

Too Lazy to Learn, Globalization of Asia: Other Excuses Not to Visit
Yet, increasingly I was focusing more on the history of the Chinese and Japanese in North America.  Not only was it more relevant, but it was simply easier and less to read.

Laden cyclists and motorbikes compete for road space. Vietnam 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis.

As a hobby, it was too much effort for me to figure out  over  3,000 years of Chinese dynastic history prior to the Opium Wars in the 1800’s.

Over time, the lure of a different place untouched by Western consumerism and individualism, was losing its exotic veneer : family members told stories of occasional breathing problems in polluted, humid Bangkok or Beijing, nearly blind consumer worship of McDonald’s, Louis  Vitton and cars sweeping across at least, urban Asia, or news reports on gross occupational hazards where locals died or were injured while labouring under dangerous conditions.

Commuter train crowds in Taipei, Tawain 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker. Similar scene at rush hour in Vancouver, however with approx. up to 60% Asian faces.

 Need Asia Anymore?
Now the latest, is that some streets in Shanghai core areas are just like any North American yuppified area.  Do I need to experience that when I can get a similar experience just by wandering down Robson St. in Vancouver, BC with over 30% Asian-Canadians in the city?  Or in the suburb of Richmond where the population is now 60% Asian-Canadian.

I probably have it all wrong –again.

Canadian Living a Fragmented Mosaic of Asian Influences

Halong Bay, Vietnam 2007. Photo by S. Chong-Purvis. Another tranquil Asian image.

Yet, I know my romanticizing of the East, is not the same as those who don’t have any family members from Asia.  The photos of my mother, still young and pretty in  her cheong-sam and striking a pose with her babies in Canada, is the beginning of why my dreams aren’t out to lunch.

The fact is  that I can see English script and often, can guess the original writer, began life by learning Chinese ideograms.  A tell-tale sign:  there is a certain consistent neatness in English handwriting. Or the fact, like a lot of Asians raised on home-Chinese cooking, we enjoy steamed fish in a bit of soy sauce, ginger root slices, green onions and oil.  To us, that’s highlighting quality fresh whole fish.  However a lot of non-Asians just see this steamed fish dish, as a boring, less dynamic  dish.

Steamed savoury egg custard with slices of beef flavoured with soy sauce, ginger root & onion. Dish seldom served in North American Chinese restaurants. But known & enjoyed by those born / raised on home Chinese cooking world-wide. 2012 Calgary.

Or that I enjoy savoury, steamed egg custard as comfort food for supper.  It has bits of sliced meat marinated with soy sauce cooked in a tasty, slightly watery custard.  Lovely with rice on the side and simple stir fried veggies.  But this custard dish rarely makes it to restaurant menus in North America.  Probably because it’s puzzling and not  as colourful as a heap of artfully stir-fried seafood with veggies.  Eating a wide range of Asian cuisines means appreciating a diverse range of food textures, contrasting flavours and colours in one meal.  My father’s favourite dish was steamed, lean pork slices with abit of salted fish to flavor the pork. We enjoyed it also –several times per month for dinner.

Like ordinary life, not dreams, I learned to cook rice in the pot over stove as a teenager. Electric rice pots only entered my life in my early 30’s.

Burning incense swirls around in temple. Changzhi, China 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

No wonder why my Asian dreams confuse me. These life memories are like colourful glass fragments in my shattered mosaic of understanding that I have had to piece together thoughtfully, over a long time.  These  experiences fused with dreams, probably only makes sense to me and others who bumble along in life.

But as time marches on and our world shrinks with personal blogs popping up from all over the globe, Asia looks less and less romantically exotic.  Globalization is making gelatos, sorbets and coffees popular in the big Asian cities. Even the Chinese and East Indians who have money are jumping on the European wine kick  –their romanticization of the West.

Or am I wrong?  Maybe it’s just me. I should just hop onto a plane and get to the truth of my arms-length, or ocean-length view of Asia. My parents have never wanted to return to China. For them, they probably rather keep the dreams of how it was before the Chinese-Japanese war and Communist takeover.

For now, I’m just content to explore Canada where I can still get lost in its vastness.

Further Reading:
Chong, Jean. Romanticizing the West:  Asian Craze for European Gourmet Desserts. In Cycle Write Blog, Feb. 2, 2012.

Seoul, South Korea 2011. Photo by HJEH Becker

Cesky Krumlov: Czech Interpretations of Medieval and Renaissance Architecture

Cesky Krumlov, a UNESCO heritage site. View from its castle promenade. Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 For another architecturally rich visit in a quieter, smaller town beyond the hustle and bustle of Prague, is the town of Cesky Krumlov.    It is 180 km. southwest of Prague  –a pleasant train ride in old, but clean Czech trains.  We stowed our bikes into the bike train car and settled into our seats to watch the green countryside roll by, dotted with red roofed farmhouses.

As soon as one leaves the train station and rides into town, the preserved walls of the town begin to appear shortly and then you’re pedaling along cobblestone. The town was established in 1302 and ascended in its development to 1602.  During this time period, Cesky Krumlov lay near the juncture of Czech, Austrian, Bavarian (German) and Italian lands.

Looking up at Castle Watchtower from lower town of Cesky Krumlov. Tower has some triumph d’oeil painted on its facade to mimic brickwork and windows. Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Our overnight stay was in a historic guesthouse, Castle Stairs which was tucked under the spire-shadow of the Cesky Krumlov’s Castle Tower.  This was the same place where U.S. television travelogue broadcaster, Rick Steeves stayed.  The owner also ran a souvenier gift shop downstairs.  He generously allowed us to gingerly store our bikes inside the shop among some breakable knickknacks and glass display cases.  If there was an alternate bike parking spot in this historic medieval section of town, we certainly would have used it!

The castle promenade bridge was built later on top of the town’s Roman aqueduct. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

To explore  Cesky Krumlov, we spent the rest of the first day, walking. With the town split between an upper plateau level where the castle was located overlooking the lower level where the the townsfolk lived for centuries, it was just easier.  Otherwise, we would be grinding up and shaloming down slippery, cobblestone streets.

Trompe l’Oeil Without Being Cheesy
What was striking in the castle compound, was the use of trompe l’oeil on the building fascia and on the Castle Watchtower, or painted images to masquerade as bricks and stone. Now, to some visitors, this is cheesy but for a country like the Czech Republic, which already has numerous historic heritage buildings in Prague and elsewhere, it’s just abit more economical and practical.  After all, when I wandered about Prague, I kept wondering how could the city sustain the long-term cost of architectural restoration even with support from other external funding bodies. The Czech Republic has only recently embarked enthusiastically on the road to free-enterprise.

Castle’s gardens were located at the bottom of the hill. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Within half a block of our guesthouse, there was a centuries-old, walled royal bear compound where yes, two bears roamed around.  It was for the narcissistic pleasure of the royalty where ‘bear’  in part of the family name, Rozmburk  (or Rosenburg, depending how you transliterate it) and featured in the town’s crest. After touring the castle, I couldn’t help but wonder it was a luxurious, but lonely life in this rural part of the country for the Rozmburks.

Marionette peasant couple. Puppet Museum. Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 An amble along the covered stone bridge down into the lower Cesky Krumlov, offered splendid panoramic views of Cesky Krumlov’s churches,  neatly kept homes below, the Vtalov River, undulating  green pastures and forests.  Here, the bridge is on top of a Roman acqueduct.

At the bottom of the castle, there were gardens and small fountains that mirrored very humbly to the more fabulous French Palace of Versailles-style gardens and topiary. 

Our meals were punctuated with gargantuous Czech dumplings that I wrote earlier in a blog post and the ubiquitous apple strudel. On the second day, we did some simple cycling around the edges of town before hauling ourselves and the bikes with panniers back onto the train.

Strolling and exploring Cesky Krumlov.Czech Republic 2010. Photo by J. Chong. The town has 300 buildings as part of the UNESCO heritage designation.

Cesky Krumlov offered us a relaxing, UNESCO designated historic ambiance of Czech expression for medieval and Renaissance architecture and art, in both high style as well as  burgher style where shopkeepers, tradesmen and workers lived.  It was seeing the best perserved slice of these architectural eras, outside of Prague.

Further Reading and Photos:
Cesky Krumlov’s official web site.

Chong, Jean. Come and Get Your Dumpling: West-East Comparisons. In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 25, 2010.

Lake Louise Snowshoeing: Snow Glazed Mountains, Ice Castles and Bison Reuben Sandwiches

Like every mountain snow-starved urbanite, we head to our choice mountain area for some snowshoeing.  This time after an overnight stay in Banff, Alberta, we went to Lake Louise to explore both some familiar and other new trails.

Snowshoeing on the Tramline trail between village of Lake Louise and Chateau Lake Louise. Alberta 2012. Photo by J.Chong

I last visited Lake Louise twelve years ago in the fall, when we were travelling across Canada from Toronto in a small moving van when Jack first relocated to Vancouver.  On earlier trips, I had seen Lake Louise, dazzling in her turquoise bejewelled summer waters when 2 years prior to my move, we cycled on the Continental Divide route to the town of Field.

Area becomes a mecca for hiking, mountaineering and winter sports –as promised by vintage poster. Archival display at Lake Louise Visitors’ Centre 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Along the way, we spied a baby bear playing by a stream.  That meant mama bear was near by. We scrambled onto our bikes and spun as fast as we could up a hill along with an overly ripe banana inside my pannier.  Another time, when we cross-country skied the Continental Divide for 18 km., I recalled a nagging fear as the wind blew slanted with snow falling steadily:  we saw no one for over an hour while we crossed the snowy foothills under towering mountain shadows.  I wondered if I would finish the route before nightfall.  I was not a good cross-country skier.

Cradled Among Snow-Draped Evergreen Forests
Between the village of Lake Louise and the world-famous iconic hotel, Chateau Lake Louise by the lake, it was a perfect 11 km. snowshoeing round trip with some gradual hills, groomed trails flanked by snow-draped thick evergreen forests and rising mountains ahead at each bend.  Every winter, I always forget how much snowshoeing energy is burned up, especially when I suck in dry, fresh and pure air.

On High Line snowshoe trail. Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta 2012. Photo by HJEH Becker

While traversing through these soaring forests topped with snowy creaminess, you are cradled along Nature’s protective snow forest canals, away from harsh winds.

To avoid the avalanche of tourists and higher accommodation prices, we were there a week after New Year’s Day.  Perfect, since we had the trails to ourselves, and attentive restaurant servers.

This time the Chateau Lake Louise had its first  ice castle sculpture of the year, planted at the lake edge where skaters swirled around it.  In a few weeks, there will be more ice sculptures to draw more visitors until the icy creations melt down.

Lovely lady figurine chandeliers in different areas of Chateau Lake Louise, Banff National Park. Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Though I had been in the famous hotel, Chateau Lake Louise, I had not seen it since its last major retrofit.   The hotel is a historic evocation of Canadian Pacific Rail’s few deluxe, luxury  hotels along its main railroad across Canada. It was first built in 1890.

To keep visitors entertained and satisfy their adventurous spirit, both Lake Louise and Banff  became a mecca for hikers and mountain climbers.  In the late 19th century, Canadian Pacific Railway hired Swiss guides to develop its network of trails. In the Chateau, at Parks Canada visitors’ centre and at the Whyte Museum in Banff, the mountaineering , backcountry skiing and hiking legacy is highlighted.

Bison reuben sandwiches with red cabbage slaw and handmade aioli — elegant fireside culinary grubb at the Chateau. Lake Louise, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

 Evocation of Refined Adventure Travel And Grub
Chateau Lake Louise has some lovely figurehead chandeliers, wild animal taxidermy pieces (or simulations) and occasional curious wall tapestries to emulate baronial furnishings. By the third floor entrance stairway landing, is a wall hanging that is a tongue-in-cheek Canadian  parody of the renaissance pastoral vision:  a caribou or deer  seems to be swimming through the lake.

Curious tapestry with mock renaissance pastoral visions with deer (or elk) swimming in lake. Chateau Lake Louise, Alberta 2012. Photo by J. Chong

In the Lakeview Lounge, we munched happily through the restaurant’s signature bison reuben sandwiches with delicately grated red cabbage and their house aioli. Surely, the

Mountain ice climber spotted while snowshoeing around Lake Louise. 2012. Photo by J. Becker

finest interpretation of the local fireside grub.  A memorable lunch with a lakeside view of Temple Mountain, its glacier, ice castle and horse drawn sleigh before we hit the downhill Tramline snowshoe trail back to the village.

Further Reading and More Adventures:
History of Chateau Lake Louise.

Chong, Jean.  Canadian Reindeer Look-alikes:  Caribou, Elk and Mule Deer.  In Cycle Write Blog. Dec. 26, 2011.

Chong, Jean. More Snowshoeing for Snow Mountain Addicts and the Vertigo Inclined. In Cycle Write Blog. Feb. 12, 2011.

Ice castle at edge of Lake Louise in front of the Chateau. Lake Louise, Banff National Park 2012. Photo by J. Chong

Chong, Jean.  Rocky Mountain Cycling Interlude:  Bighorn Sheep, Ragged Peaks and Turquoise Waters.  In Cycle Write Blog.  Aug. 4, 2011.

Chong, Jean.  Roaming Around for Bison:  Distinctly North American, Lean and Maybe Gourmet. In Cycle Write Blog. Dec. 17, 2010.

900 Years of Architectural Legacy: Why Prague is a Royal Empress

Some art work on building facades. New Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

I had heard of Prague’s splendid old World charm.  But I was unprepared for the city’s dizzying variety and historical compression of architectural centuries at each street corner and with each turn of my head.  Good thing we could explore its astonishing richness of Romanesque, medieval, baroque, renaissance, gothic and art nouveau building wonders, by bike and on foot.   Of course, we could not miss out on some of its stunning cathedrals and museum collections.

During Peak Tourist Season and IFA Soccer Craze
We were there last year for 4 days with an interlude of another 2 days at the UNESCO Heritage site, the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov.  Not only were we in Prague during peak tourist season in June, but also in the midst of IFA soccer fan crowds glued to  jumbo tv screens mounted in old public square, to watch championship playoffs.

St. Wenceslas Square with some manicured gardens in its central boulevard. Prague, 2010. Photo by J. Chong

  Though we stayed in staid sounding Best Western Pave, the hotel was also plunked in a historic neighbourhood. Just next door was a pub with gold filigreed sign, where we heard at night, the raucous cheering and conversation. There must have been also an IFA tv screen tucked somewhere at the bar.  Clean and modern with a curving iron wrought and wood rail and pseudo-marble steps, this chain hotel suggested a previous independent hotel of some vintage.

Panoramic view of Old Town Prague, from Prague Castle 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Lost in Wonder –Literally
It’s amusing to see Prague’s official tourism web site which emblazons one of its information sections:  “How Not to Get Lost”.  Obviously we weren’t the only ones.  Normally, Jack has good wayfinding  geo-spatial sense in strange cities and places where we’ve travelled far and wide.  However in parts of Prague’s Old Town and New Town, we did get slightly lost since neither of us could even guess at Czech letter script to  memorize old street names properly.  But getting occasionally lost for fifteen minutes or so nearly daily, was negligible time lost for seeing along our cobblestoned way, fantastic decorated building facia, gargoyles, stained glass, mounted sculptures, murals –it’s an architect’s, art lover’s and historian’s dream.  If not that, 

Abbey section of St. George's Basilica. Old Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong. Romanesque paintings. Rare to see paintings depicting abbesses, nuns or any female church order in many well-known European churches that I visited during my trip. However a greater likelihood sometimes in very early medieval liturgical art.

 Prague is a beguiling teacher on over 900 years of European architectural history, just by wandering around slack –jawed in area of less than 10  square kilometers.

How could any ex-Prague citizen find any of our North American cities as artfully intriguing?  There was the Astronomical Clock at the Old Town Square Tower where upon the strike of clock tower bell, the painted and gold figurines of 12 apostles moved.  The Tower dates back to 1338.  We would pass by it  several times, to walk from one pedestrianized street,  old square to another.  Cycling in an enjoyable way, was abit useless among these crowds. Besides, you would miss out on seeing the city’s building splendor up  close. 

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When we had one of our first dinners outside in a public square, St. Nicholas Cathedral  loomed above us, less than 10 feet away. Unfortunately it was closed and somehow I forgot to revisit the place when it was open since I got distracted by the magnificence of St. Vitus’s Cathedral (which I described earlier in another blog post with photos of  its  dazzling stained glass art).  Or another nearby  church-convent, St. George’s Basilica where to the one side was St. George’s abbey dating from 972 with preserved Romanesque mural paintings of several abbesses, a rare thing to see a female church order painted on a large scale inside churches.

Cubistic contemporary building complex amongst heritage buildings. New Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

Another time, as we strolled yet another narrow, clean street, we passed by suddenly some Cubistic-like buildings.  Prague was like that:  frequent, unexpected delight of structures from different eras intermixed along the same street, as well as sculptures, carvings and fanciful metalwork adorning building entrances, windows or roof eaves.

I wondered how on earth the city secured the funds to restore its national heritage buildings. It must be an ongoing process of grant applications and lobbying funding bodies and philanthropists.

Silver liturgical art work. St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Evening with Baroque Music
To lure tourists with its cultural arts, nearly every day there were a few classical music concerts. How could we as baroque music fans, resist?  So we treated ourselves with tickets, to a live chamber concert of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Pachabel’s Canon at Municipal Hall.  The Hall was a stodgy shaped building but was wonderfully embellished with art nouveau art pieces both inside and outside its walls. That evening  less than 100 people attended the concert in a cavernous musical hall that could seat well over 800 people.  But no matter, the soaring music lifted us along with also distractions of the building’s interior.

Fierce protectors guarding at Prague Castle's gates. 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 In tune with the spirit of cultural arts, we winded through the Museum of Musical Instruments, Prague’s City Museum, National Museum and a building near St. Wenceslas Square which I cannot remember its name, that featured soaring ceiling and wall art nouveau murals in expansive public meeting rooms.

We did the slow typical stroll across Charles Bridge, first built in the 14th century with over 12 statutes which are now replaced with copies. After drinking in the panoramic sight of terra cotta roofed buildings and winding narrow cobblestone streets, we spent time at the Prague Castle, Sternberg Palace and the cathedrals mentioned earlier.

Stroll along in Prague 2010. Photo by J.Chong. Notice on halfway on right, a deer sculpture ready to leap out of a window.

Cuisine More Heartiness than Gastronomic
No doubt we were in heavy tourist areas which most likely obscured whatever better Czech cuisine we could have had beyond dumplings, meat, strudel and  heavier cakes than what we had in southern Germany.  Or just mediocre Italian or even Asian cuisine. Only pure pragmatism of cycling with double pannier weight, prevented me from buying tempting Czech wine since we still had over a week in Copenhagen ahead of us.  After all, Czech wines are not often found in Canada.

Stained glass art. St. Vitus Cathedral, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Jewel that Survived War and Revolution
It’s even more astounding that Prague’s architectural and artistic magnificence has survived several waves of political revolution. Most  recently after World War II, the Czech Republic was part the Soviet Communist bloc before its final dissolution in the early 1980’s.   Not surprisingly, in 1992 the whole historic city core of over 800 hectares, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Contemporary sun dial art installation in the midst of medieval and Rennaissance era buildiings. Old Town, Prague 2010. Photo by J. Chong

 Prague overwhelms you with her magnitude of visual history, time layers of artistic inspiration and craftsmanship, all  jammed side by side, along its narrow cobblestone twisting streets.  Even after 5 days there, we knew we had not seen all of this wonderful empress of European cities.

Further Reading (and Photos):
Becker, Jack. Cycling in Prague.  In Third Wave Cycling Blog, Jun. 26, 2010.

Chong, Jean. Come and Get Your Dumplings: Some West-East Comparisons.  In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 25, 2010

Chong, Jean.  Stained Glass Art: A European Sampler of Refracted Light and Colour. In Cycle Write Blog, Jul. 17, 2010.  More photos of this artwork in St. Vitus Cathedral and in Municipal Hall.

Official Prague Tourism site.